What Is an Asscher Cut Diamond?

Artículo publicado en: 12 jul 2026 Autor del artículo: Afshan SEO
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What Is an Asscher Cut Diamond

The Asscher cut is one of the most historically significant diamond cuts in the fine jewellery world. Created over 120 years ago, it became the defining diamond shape of the Art Deco period, favoured for the way its geometric precision and reflective depth suited the clean architectural aesthetics of the 1920s and 1930s. Today it is the choice of buyers who want an engagement ring that communicates sophistication, history, and architectural character rather than the sparkle maximisation of a modern brilliant cut.

The History of the Asscher Cut

The Asscher cut was created by Joseph Isaac Asscher of the I.J. Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam in 1902. The Asscher family were one of the most significant diamond cutting families in history: in 1907, Joseph Asscher was commissioned to cleave the Cullinan Diamond, the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found, which was eventually cut into stones that became part of the British Crown Jewels.

The original 1902 Asscher cut has 58 facets, a distinctively high crown, a small table, and large deeply trimmed 45-degree corners that give the finished diamond an almost octagonal outline when viewed from above. These proportions were designed to maximise the hall-of-mirrors effect characteristic of step-cut diamonds, while the square outline distinguished it from the rectangular emerald cut that would come to define a later era of fine jewellery.

The Asscher Diamond Company held a patent on the Asscher cut from its creation in 1902. The patent expired after World War II, during which the company's operations were devastated. In 2001, the Asscher family introduced the Royal Asscher cut — a modified design with 74 facets and enhanced light performance — as a trademarked revival of the family's original creation. Standard Asscher cuts produced by other cutters are based on the original 1902 design without the Royal Asscher modifications.

What Makes the Asscher Cut Look Different

The Asscher cut's visual character is defined by four specific properties that set it apart from every other common diamond shape.

High crown and small table: The Asscher cut has a notably higher crown (the facets above the girdle) and a smaller table (the flat top facet) than most modern diamond cuts. This proportion concentrates the hall-of-mirrors effect in the stone's upper portion, producing more visible concentric rectangular reflections when viewed from directly above.

Deeply trimmed corners: The four corners of the Asscher cut are trimmed at 45 degrees, producing a distinctively octagonal outline when the stone is viewed face-up. The corners are more deeply trimmed than those of the radiant cut and at a sharper angle than the emerald cut's smaller corner trims. This octagonal silhouette is the Asscher cut's most recognisable feature at a glance.

Step-cut facets: Like the emerald cut, the Asscher uses long, flat rectangular step-cut facets arranged in parallel rows rather than the triangular and kite-shaped facets of brilliant cuts. These facets create reflective depth rather than sparkle, producing the characteristic hall-of-mirrors appearance.

Hall-of-mirrors depth: When you look directly into the table of a well-cut Asscher diamond, you see a series of concentric rectangular frames receding inward, like looking into the centre of an infinite corridor of mirrors. This is the defining visual quality of the Asscher cut and what draws buyers who have seen it in person.

Asscher Cut vs Emerald Cut — The Key Differences

Factor

Asscher cut

Emerald cut

Outline

Square with deeply trimmed corners (octagonal)

Rectangular with small trimmed corners

L-W ratio

1.00 to 1.05 for true square

1.30 to 1.60 for classic rectangular

Crown height

High crown, concentrated hall-of-mirrors effect

Lower crown, wider reflective surface

Table size

Small table, more dramatic depth effect

Larger table, broader open window quality

Facet count (original)

58 facets (Royal Asscher: 74 facets)

Approximately 57 facets

Visual character

Compact, geometric depth, more concentrated

Elongated, expansive reflective quality

Finger effect

Square, no elongation

Rectangular, some finger-lengthening effect

Best for

Buyers who want a square Art Deco step-cut shape

Buyers who want a rectangular step-cut shape

Why Clarity Grade Is Critical for the Asscher Cut

The Asscher cut's step-cut facets act as windows into the diamond's interior rather than as mirrors that conceal it. In a round brilliant, the complex facet pattern creates sparkle that effectively masks inclusions. In an Asscher cut, inclusions are significantly more visible at equivalent clarity grades because the open table allows an unobstructed view into the stone.

VS2 clarity in an Asscher cut: May show inclusions visible to the naked eye through the open table. Not recommended as a clarity choice for buyers who want an inclusion-free appearance.

VS1 clarity: The practical minimum for an Asscher cut that presents as inclusion-free to the naked eye in most lighting conditions. TJ Diamond's recommended minimum clarity grade for all Asscher cut diamonds.

VVS2 and VVS1 clarity: The cleanest possible appearance through the Asscher's open table. The concentric hall-of-mirrors reflections are uninterrupted by any visible inclusions. The most technically impressive clarity presentation available in a step-cut diamond.

This clarity requirement is the Asscher cut's primary quality consideration and the most important distinction between the Asscher and a brilliant-cut diamond of the same carat weight and price.

Colour Grade and the Open Table

The Asscher cut's large open table also allows colour to be seen more readily than in brilliant-cut diamonds. For a platinum or white gold setting, F or G colour is the recommended minimum. For an 18ct yellow gold or rose gold setting, H or I colour Asscher cuts appear as colourless as F or G colour stones in white metal, because the warm metal's colour is visible through the open table and absorbs the diamond's own warmth simultaneously. This warm metal colour strategy provides a meaningful budget advantage for Asscher cut buyers in yellow or rose gold.

Ring Settings for Asscher Cut Diamonds in NZ

  • Asscher cut engagement rings: solitaires, halo, and all engagement ring styles for the Asscher cut. The most classic Asscher setting is a four-prong solitaire placing prongs at the trimmed corners, allowing maximum light entry from all angles.

  • Browse our full Asscher cut diamond rings range for anniversary, self-purchase, and fashion ring styles alongside engagement options.

  • Bezel setting: a metal rim encircles the Asscher's perimeter, producing a clean Art Deco-influenced profile that suits the vintage character of the shape particularly well.

  • Halo setting: a ring of round accent diamonds surrounding the square Asscher creates strong visual contrast between the geometric square outline and the circular halo, while amplifying the perceived centre stone size.

  • For comparison with the related step-cut rectangular shape, see our emerald cut engagement rings collection.

Asscher Cut Diamonds at TJ Diamond

TJ Diamond handcrafts Asscher cut engagement rings in our Auckland studio in 18ct gold and platinum. Every Asscher cut diamond carries a GIA or IGI certificate. TJ Diamond assesses every Asscher cut individually for clarity presentation through the open table before selection — the same assessment applied to emerald cut diamonds, which share the step-cut clarity visibility challenge.

Natural and lab-grown Asscher cut diamonds are both available. Lab-grown Asscher cuts carry GIA or IGI certification at the same quality grades as natural stones, at 50-70% lower prices. For buyers who want VS1 or VVS clarity, which the Asscher cut demands, lab-grown makes the highest clarity grades significantly more accessible within a defined NZ budget.

Contact our Auckland team to arrange a virtual consultation. We show the specific Asscher cut diamond under multiple lighting conditions so the hall-of-mirrors effect and clarity character are visible before any purchase commitment.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: What is an Asscher cut diamond?

An Asscher cut diamond is a square diamond with deeply trimmed corners and parallel step-cut facets arranged in rows on both the crown and pavilion. Created by Joseph Asscher in Amsterdam in 1902, the Asscher cut produces a distinctive hall-of-mirrors effect: concentric rectangular reflections visible through the open square table, creating a depth and architectural clarity that no brilliant-cut diamond replicates. The Asscher cut is the original square step-cut diamond, predating the emerald cut's rectangular step-cut design. Its high crown, small table, and deeply trimmed 45-degree corners give it a more dramatic visual character than any other step-cut shape.

Q2: What is the difference between an Asscher cut and an emerald cut diamond?

Both are step-cut diamonds with parallel rectangular facets, but they differ in outline, proportion, and visual character. The Asscher cut is square (length-to-width ratio as close to 1.00 as possible) with large, deeply trimmed 45-degree corners that create an almost octagonal outline. The emerald cut is rectangular with smaller trimmed corners. The Asscher's higher crown and smaller table produce a more concentrated, dramatic hall-of-mirrors effect in a compact square. The emerald cut's lower crown and larger table produce a wider, more expansive reflective quality. Both require VS1 clarity or better for an inclusion-free appearance, as the step-cut facets reveal inclusions more readily than brilliant-cut diamonds.

Q3: Why does the Asscher cut require higher clarity than round brilliants?

The Asscher cut's step-cut facets act as windows into the diamond's interior rather than mirrors that return light. A round brilliant's complex triangular facet pattern creates a sparkle effect that masks inclusions very effectively — a VS2 round brilliant almost never shows inclusions to the naked eye. An Asscher cut's flat, parallel facets offer no such concealment. Inclusions are significantly more visible at equivalent clarity grades in the open table of a step-cut diamond. VS1 clarity is the practical minimum for an Asscher cut that presents as inclusion-free to the naked eye. VVS2 or VVS1 delivers the clearest possible hall-of-mirrors depth with no visible interruptions.

Q4: What is the difference between the original Asscher cut and the Royal Asscher cut?

The original Asscher cut, created by Joseph Asscher in 1902, has 58 facets and a distinctive high crown with a small table. The Royal Asscher cut was developed in 2001 by the Asscher family to update the original design with enhanced light performance while preserving the vintage character. The Royal Asscher cut has 74 facets (compared to the original's 58), a slightly higher crown, and a modified facet arrangement that increases the brilliance and fire visible through the step-cut facets. The Royal Asscher cut is patented by the Asscher family. Standard modern Asscher cuts are based on the original 1902 design with various modifications that are not patented.

Q5: What colour grade is recommended for an Asscher cut diamond in NZ?

The Asscher cut's open table allows colour to be seen more readily than in brilliant-cut diamonds. For a platinum or white gold setting, F or G colour is the recommended minimum for a consistently colourless appearance. H colour in white metal may show a slight warmth visible in the open step facets under certain lighting. For an 18ct yellow gold or rose gold setting, H or I colour Asscher cuts appear as colourless as F or G colour stones in white metal, because the warm metal absorbs the diamond's own warmth through the open table. The colour grade advantage of warm metals is particularly significant in the Asscher cut, where the large facets allow both colour and setting metal to be seen directly through the stone.

Q6: What is the ideal length-to-width ratio for an Asscher cut diamond?

For an Asscher cut that reads as a true square, a length-to-width ratio of 1.00 to 1.05 is ideal. Ratios above 1.10 begin to read as rectangular, losing the characteristic square Asscher outline. The Asscher cut is distinguished from the emerald cut in part by its square proportions: buyers who want a rectangular step-cut shape should consider the emerald cut, while buyers who want a square step-cut should prioritise an Asscher ratio as close to 1.00 as possible. The large trimmed corners of the Asscher cut also compress the visual outline, making photographs slightly less accurate than in-person assessment for judging the final proportions on the hand.

Q7: How much does an Asscher cut engagement ring cost in NZ?

Asscher cut engagement rings at TJ Diamond start from $999 NZD. The Asscher cut is typically priced similarly to the emerald cut, reflecting the step-cut family's lower demand relative to brilliant cuts. This means Asscher cut diamonds are generally 15-25% less expensive per carat than round brilliants at equivalent quality grades. The clarity premium required for a step-cut diamond (VS1 or better) partially offsets this price advantage. Lab-grown Asscher cut diamonds are available at TJ Diamond with GIA or IGI certification at 50-70% below natural equivalents at the same quality grades, making the higher clarity grades the Asscher cut demands significantly more accessible within a defined NZ budget.

Q8: What ring settings work best for Asscher cut diamonds?

The Asscher cut's square outline and trimmed corners are compatible with a wider range of settings than diamonds with sharp corner points. A four-prong solitaire is the most classic setting, placing prongs at the four trimmed corners to allow maximum light entry. A bezel setting encircles the entire perimeter including the trimmed corners for maximum protection and a sleek, Art Deco-influenced profile. A halo of round accent diamonds creates strong visual contrast between the square Asscher outline and the circular halo, while amplifying the perceived size of the centre stone. Channel-set side stones with baguette or Asscher-cut side diamonds are a cohesive Art Deco composition that suits the vintage character of the shape.

 

 

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