Marquise Diamond Rings
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Marquise Diamond Rings NZ — The Royal Cut, Correctly Told
The marquise diamond is the most dramatically elongating shape in fine jewellery, the oldest diamond shape still in regular production, and the one with the most precisely documented royal origin. It is also the shape most frequently misattributed in the English-speaking jewellery market. Two major NZ jewellers state on their marquise collection pages that Louis XIV commissioned the shape. Louis XIV died in 1715. The marquise cut was commissioned in approximately 1745 by his great-great-grandson, Louis XV.
At TJ Diamond, every marquise diamond ring is handcrafted in our Auckland studio with the correct history, the correct double V-tip prongs, and the correct assessment of bow-tie effect before any diamond enters our workshop. These three details together separate a beautiful marquise ring from a merely acceptable one.
The Correct History — Louis XV, Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, 1745
Around 1745, King Louis XV of France commissioned a diamond be cut in the shape of the lips of his mistress, Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, who held the title of Marquise de Pompadour. She was one of the most remarkable figures at the court of Versailles — a woman of bourgeois origin who became the king's official favourite, his intellectual companion, and one of the most powerful political influences in France during the reign of Louis XV.
The elongated pointed shape that resulted from the commission took its name from her title. It is also called the navette, from the French word for a small boat or shuttle, which the outline resembles. The shape has been in continuous production for nearly 280 years and carries the association with French royal elegance and aristocratic refinement throughout its history.
Commissioned by Louis XV of France in approximately 1745. Named for the Marquise de Pompadour. Nearly 280 years of continuous use. And two other NZ jewellers still have the wrong king on their collection pages.
Both Tips Need V-Prong Protection — Not Just One
The marquise diamond has two sharply pointed ends, and both tips must be protected by V-shaped prongs. This is what distinguishes the marquise from the pear diamond: a pear has one pointed tip requiring one V-prong. A marquise has two, and both require the same V-prong protection, regardless of the ring style or occasion.
A standard round prong at a marquise tip leaves the corner exposed to chipping risk from accidental impacts. V-shaped prongs cradle each tip edge on both sides, absorbing impact across the prong rather than directing it to the diamond point. TJ Diamond sets every marquise diamond ring with V-tip prongs at both ends as standard — for engagement rings, anniversary rings, fashion rings, and every other marquise ring style we make. Our jewellers confirm both tip protections before any ring leaves our Auckland studio.
The Bow-Tie Effect — In-Person Assessment Required
Like oval and pear diamonds, the marquise can exhibit a bow-tie effect: a shadow across the widest central section of the stone caused by the elongated facets not returning light efficiently from the central area. In a well-cut marquise, the bow-tie is subtle and adds depth. In a poorly cut stone, it can be a dominant dark shadow.
Assessing the bow-tie effect requires viewing the diamond in person under different light sources — it cannot be accurately judged from photographs or product listings. TJ Diamond's jewellers assess every marquise diamond for bow-tie intensity before selection. For any buyer who wants to see the bow-tie effect assessed in real time, our try-before-you-pay process at our Auckland studio provides exactly this opportunity.
Proportions — The L-W Ratio Guide
Balanced marquise (L-W ratio 1.85 to 2.00): The most widely recommended proportion. Clearly elongated with strong visual presence. Substantial enough to appear confident rather than fragile. The most versatile marquise proportion across finger sizes and ring styles.
Classic elongated marquise (L-W ratio 2.00 to 2.15): More dramatic elongation. Creates a bold, distinctive look with maximum finger-lengthening effect. Suits longer fingers particularly well and makes a strong statement in any setting.
Wider marquise (below 1.75): A shorter, wider marquise. Reads closer to an oval with pointed ends. Suits buyers who prefer the marquise outline but find the standard proportions too narrow for their hand.
North-South or East-West — Two Different Marquise Rings
The marquise's pointed tips and elongated outline create two distinctly different ring characters depending on orientation:
North-south (traditional): The tips point toward the fingernail and knuckle, running along the length of the finger. Maximises the finger-elongating and finger-slimming effect. The most classic and most widely worn marquise orientation.
East-west (contemporary): The tips point to the sides of the finger, with the stone running horizontally across the hand. Creates a bold architectural statement rather than vertical elongation. Both V-tip prongs are visible from each side of the finger. The east-west marquise is one of the fastest-growing contemporary fashion ring orientations in New Zealand in 2025.
Occasions for Marquise Diamond Rings
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Engagement ring, marquise engagement rings: the marquise's dramatic elongation and brilliant sparkle create one of the most visually striking engagement ring choices. The 280-year history and royal origin give it genuine romantic depth beyond the diamond's visual qualities alone.
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Solitaire for any occasion, solitaire engagement rings: a marquise in a plain-band solitaire setting with V-tip prongs at both ends is equally appropriate as an anniversary ring, a self-purchase piece, or a significant gift.
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Anniversary ring, oval diamond rings: the marquise's elegant elongation and historical significance make it a particularly resonant anniversary ring choice, especially at a milestone occasion. The north-south orientation in a yellow gold setting has a deeply historical quality.
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East-west fashion ring: the horizontal marquise is the most requested contemporary fashion ring configuration at TJ Diamond for buyers who want something architecturally distinctive. A bezel or channel setting in a rose or white gold band complements the east-west marquise beautifully.
Setting Styles for Marquise Diamond Rings
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North-south solitaire, solitaire engagement rings: V-prongs at both tips with round claws at the curved sides. The most classic marquise setting. Minimal and timelessly elegant, particularly in yellow gold.
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East-west bezel, bezel engagement rings: a full metal rim encircles the marquise including both pointed tips. Maximum tip protection in the horizontal position. One of the most contemporary marquise settings available.
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Yellow gold vintage solitaire, yellow gold engagement rings: the marquise's royal lineage and the warm metal create a combination with genuine historical character. Before white gold and platinum entered fine jewellery, all marquise diamonds were set in yellow gold.
For comparison shoppers considering both marquise and oval: the oval shares the elongating character and the finger-flattering effect of the marquise, without the pointed tips. See our oval diamond rings collection and our
pear engagement rings collection for comparison of all elongated romantic diamond shapes.
Natural and Lab-Grown Marquise Diamonds
Both natural and lab-grown marquise cut diamonds are available at TJ Diamond, each IGI or GIA certified. The marquise's elongated form makes it one of the most efficient fancy shapes for showing carat weight visually. Lab-grown marquise diamonds make larger, more dramatically elongating stones accessible across all occasions and budgets. Explore our lab-grown diamond collection for the full range.
The TJ Diamond Commitment
Every marquise diamond ring is completed in our Auckland studio with V-tip prongs confirmed at both ends, bow-tie effect assessed in person, and the setting inspected before the ring leaves. From $999 NZD across all ring styles and occasions. Contact us to book a studio consultation, or browse the collection above.
Our lifetime warranty covers all TJ Diamond marquise rings including V-prong maintenance at both tips, stone resetting, and professional polishing for the life of the ring.