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Ordering a custom piece of jewellery can feel mysterious if you’ve only ever bought from a display cabinet. What actually happens after you say, “Yes, let’s make it”? How does a sketch or an idea become a finished ring that you wear every day? At TJ Gold & Diamond (TJ Diamond), we’re not just a retailer – we’re a direct‑to‑consumer manufacturer. That means your piece is designed, crafted, and finished by our own team, in our own workshop. In this guide, we’ll walk you through our manufacturing process from A to Z, so you know exactly what you’re getting and why you can feel confident in your choice. Step 1: Your Vision and Consultation Every custom piece starts with a conversation. You might come to us with: A specific design in mind A handful of inspiration photos An existing piece you want to remodel Or just a feeling of what you like and don’t like Our team will discuss your style, budget, metal preferences, stone shapes and sizes, and any special details (engraving, hidden stones, profiles, etc.). This can happen in person or online, depending on what suits you best. The goal of this step:Turn your ideas into a clear, shared design direction. Step 2: Selecting Your Diamonds and Gemstones Next, we help you choose the right centre stone and any side stones to match your design. We’ll guide you through: The 4Cs: cut, colour, clarity, and carat The right stone size for your budget and finger size Different shapes (round, oval, pear, emerald cut, and more) Matching stones for halos, side stones, or bands Because we work directly with trusted suppliers and manufacture in‑house, we can balance value and beauty, and explain exactly what you’re paying for. Step 3: Design, CAD, and 3D Modelling Once your concept and stones are chosen, our designers translate that into a precise design. This typically includes: Detailed sketches and/or digital design CAD (Computer‑Aided Design) modelling to show the ring from multiple angles Exact measurements for stone settings, band width, and profile height You’ll be able to review and approve the design, and request adjustments before we move into production. This step ensures we capture every detail correctly before any metal is cast. Step 4: Creating the Model and Casting With your design finalised, we create a physical model. This may involve: 3D printing or wax modelling based on the CAD file Preparing the model for casting in your chosen metal (e.g. white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, platinum) Then, using professional casting techniques, we transform the molten metal into the rough form of your piece. This is where your jewellery starts to physically exist – but it’s still only the beginning. Step 5: Hand Crafting, Filing, and Assembly After casting, our jewellers: Cut away any excess metal from the casting process File and shape the piece to refine every curve and edge Assemble multi‑part designs (such as halos, multi‑stone settings, or fitted wedding bands) This is highly skilled work that blends precision and artistry. Small adjustments at this stage make a big difference to comfort, balance, and the final look. Step 6: Stone Setting Next, your diamonds or gemstones are carefully set by our professional setters. Depending on your design, this can include: Prong / claw settings Bezel settings Channel or pavé settings Halo and side stone arrangements Each stone is secured individually, with close attention to symmetry, alignment, and light performance. The aim is not just that the stones stay in place, but that they sparkle at their absolute best. Step 7: Polishing, Finishing, and Detailing Once the stones are set, your piece moves to finishing. Our finishing process can include: Multiple stages of polishing for a high, mirror‑like shine Brushed, matte, or other custom finishes if requested Cleaning to remove any polishing compounds Final detailing and a thorough inspection This is where your jewellery looks like what you imagined – only better. All the small marks from manufacturing are removed, and the metal and stones come to life. Step 8: Quality Control and Final Checks Before we hand your piece over, it passes through strict quality checks. We verify: Stone security and setting quality Metal finish and overall workmanship Sizing and fit according to your order Engraving and special details are correct Only when we’re completely satisfied does your piece leave the workshop. Step 9: Presentation, Certification, and Delivery We then prepare your piece for you: Professional presentation box Any relevant diamond or gemstone certificates Care instructions and cleaning recommendations Warranty or guarantee details Whether you collect in person or have your piece shipped, we ensure it’s safely packaged and fully documented. Why Working With a Direct Manufacturer Matters Because TJ Gold & Diamond is a direct‑to‑consumer manufacturer: You know exactly who is making your jewellery You get clearer timelines and communication about each stage You can often achieve more design flexibility for your budget There’s no “mystery factory” in the background – our workshop is the factory You’re not just buying a ring; you’re commissioning a piece from one of New Zealand’s largest jewellery manufacturing teams, with the expertise and capabilities to support you from design to lifetime aftercare.

Quick guide: Want the focus on the diamond? Solitaire. Want maximum visual impact per dollar? Halo. Want the most durable and practical setting? Bezel. Want extra diamond presence without a halo? Three-stone. Want a sparkling band? Pavé. Want architectural drama? Split-shank or cathedral. The setting of an engagement ring determines how the diamond sits on the band, how it is secured, and how much of the diamond is visible. It is the second most important decision after the diamond itself, and it affects both the visual character and the practical durability of the ring. This guide covers every major setting style with the specific advantages and the buyer profile each setting suits best. Solitaire Settings Browse solitaire engagement rings. A single diamond, a plain band, no additional accent stones. The solitaire is the most classic engagement ring configuration and the one that puts every aspect of the centre diamond's quality and character on full display. The four-prong solitaire is the most common and creates a rounder visual profile around the stone. The six-prong solitaire provides more security and creates a crown-like profile that suits round and oval centres particularly well. Best for: Buyers who want the centre diamond to be the complete focus of the ring. Buyers who want maximum compatibility with any wedding band. Buyers prioritising a larger centre stone within their budget. Consider if: You want a minimal, timeless aesthetic without decorative elements on the band or around the stone. Halo Settings Browse halo engagement rings. A ring of smaller accent diamonds surrounds the centre stone, amplifying the perceived size by approximately 0.25 to 0.50 carats. A 0.80 carat centre in a halo reads comparably to a 1.25 to 1.30 carat solitaire. The hidden halo (accent diamonds set slightly below the centre stone) reads as a solitaire from above with additional depth and sparkle visible at close range. Best for: Buyers who want maximum visual impression within their budget. Cushion, oval, pear, and heart shaped centres, where the halo follows the distinctive outline of the shape. Consider if: You want more overall sparkle and diamond presence than a solitaire, or if your centre stone budget is modest and you want to maximise face-up appearance. Bezel Settings Browse bezel engagement rings. A rim of metal encircles the entire perimeter of the diamond, holding it flush within the band. The bezel is the most secure setting, as the metal rim protects the stone's edge all the way around. No prongs to catch on clothing or fabrics. Particularly suited to active lifestyles and buyers who use their hands in physical work. Best for: Active lifestyles where prongs would be a practical inconvenience. Buyers who prefer a sleek, modern, architectural aesthetic. Round, oval, and emerald centres where the clean outline reads clearly within the metal frame. Consider if: Security and low-maintenance wearability are higher priorities than maximum light exposure to the stone. Pavé Settings Small accent diamonds set closely together along the band with minimal metal between them, creating a continuously sparkling surface. Pavé adds sparkle and visual weight to the ring without competing with the centre stone. Full pavé runs diamonds on all sides of the band. Half-pavé runs diamonds on the visible top half only. Micro-pavé uses smaller stones for a finer, more delicate texture. Best for: Buyers who want more overall sparkle than a plain solitaire without adding a halo. Buyers who want the band to contribute visually to the ring rather than recede. Consider if: You want a plain band to pair cleanly with the wedding band — pavé bands can limit compatible wedding band styles. Three-Stone Settings Browse three-stone engagement rings. A centre diamond flanked by two matching or complementary side stones, traditionally representing the past, present, and future. Side stones can match the centre shape (oval centre with oval sides) or contrast it (oval centre with pear sides pointing inward, emerald centre with baguette sides). Three-stone settings add more diamond presence than a solitaire without adding a halo. Best for: Buyers who want more diamond presence without a halo. Buyers who want a design with symbolic meaning built into the structure. Oval, cushion, and emerald centres pair particularly well with contrasting side stone shapes. Consider if: You want a design that feels more distinctive and custom than a standard solitaire or halo. Split-Shank and Cathedral Settings A split-shank setting divides the band into two separate strands as it approaches the centre stone, adding architectural drama. A cathedral setting arches the metal sides upward, raising the centre stone above the plane of the band for maximum visibility and a dramatic side profile. Both add complexity and visual interest to the setting without adding accent diamonds. Best for: Buyers who want architectural drama and a distinctive band profile. Round, oval, and cushion centres, where the raised or split frame creates a strong visual contrast. Consider if: You have an active lifestyle — raised or complex band profiles can catch on surfaces more than a low-profile bezel or plain solitaire. Choosing Between a Solitaire and a Halo — The Practical Decision This is the most common setting decision buyers face. The practical framework: Choose a solitaire if your priority is a larger, higher-quality centre stone and you want all visual attention on the diamond's own character. Choose a halo if your priority is maximum visual impression at a given total budget, and you are comfortable with a ring that is more decorative in character. Choose a hidden halo if you want the maximum visual impact of a halo with the clean top profile of a solitaire — the hidden halo reads as a solitaire from above and as a halo from the side. There is no objectively correct setting. The solitaire and the halo represent two different philosophies about what an engagement ring should be. Both are equally appropriate. The decision is entirely personal. Browse our full engagement ring collection to see all setting styles across all diamond shapes and metals. Or  contact us to discuss which setting style suits your specific diamond shape, budget, and lifestyle. Frequently Asked Questions Q1: What is a solitaire engagement ring setting? A solitaire setting features a single centre diamond on a plain or simply detailed band, with no additional accent diamonds on the setting or band itself. The solitaire is the most classic and most widely recognised engagement ring configuration. Its defining advantage is simplicity: all visual attention goes to the centre diamond, whose quality, size, and character are fully visible from every angle. A solitaire setting suits any diamond shape and any metal. The most common solitaire variations are the four-prong (which creates a more circular diamond outline) and the six-prong (which creates more security and a crown-like profile). Solitaires are also the easiest setting to resize and the most compatible with any wedding band style, whether plain, pavé, or contoured. Q2: What is a halo engagement ring setting? A halo setting surrounds the centre diamond with a ring of smaller accent diamonds, amplifying the perceived size of the centre stone by approximately 0.25 to 0.50 carats and adding sparkle density to the overall ring. A 0.80 carat centre diamond in a halo typically reads comparably to a 1.25 carat solitaire. The halo is the most popular setting style for oval and cushion cut centres in the current market. A standard halo sits at the same plane as the centre stone; a hidden halo (also called a floating halo) is set slightly below the centre stone, creating the appearance of a solitaire from above with additional sparkle visible from the side and at close range. Halo settings pair particularly well with oval, cushion, pear, and heart shaped centres, where the halo follows the distinctive outline of the shape. Q3: What is a bezel engagement ring setting? A bezel setting encircles the entire perimeter of the centre diamond with a rim of metal, holding the stone flush within the band. The bezel is the most secure of all common settings, as the metal rim fully protects the diamond's edge all the way around. It is the most practical setting for active lifestyles, as there are no prongs to catch on clothing or fabrics. The bezel produces a sleek, modern, clean profile that suits contemporary and minimalist aesthetics particularly well. It also suits round, oval, and emerald cut centres most naturally, where the clean outline of the shape reads clearly within the metal frame. The bezel's protective quality makes it particularly recommended for softer precious stones and for buyers who use their hands frequently in physical work. Q4: What is a pavé engagement ring setting? A pavé setting (from the French word for paved) features small accent diamonds set closely together along the band with minimal metal between them, creating a continuous, sparkling surface that appears paved with diamonds. The diamonds are held by tiny metal beads or prongs, producing the characteristic glittering band that is one of the most popular engagement ring band styles. Pavé bands add sparkle and visual weight to the ring without adding a halo or competing with the centre stone. A full pavé band runs diamonds on all sides of the band. A half-pavé runs diamonds only on the visible top half. A micro-pavé uses smaller diamonds for a finer, more delicate texture. Pavé settings require careful maintenance as the small prongs holding each stone can wear over time with daily use. Q5: What is a three-stone engagement ring setting? A three-stone setting features a centre diamond flanked by two matching or complementary side stones. The three stones traditionally represent the past, present, and future of a relationship. The side stones may be smaller versions of the same shape as the centre (round centre with round sides, oval centre with oval sides), or contrasting shapes that complement the centre outline (oval centre with pear sides pointing inward, emerald centre with baguette sides). Three-stone settings are particularly popular for oval, cushion, and emerald centres. They add more diamond presence than a solitaire without adding a halo. Three-stone rings with contrasting side stone shapes tend to read as more distinctive and custom in character than matching sets. Q6: What is a split-shank or cathedral engagement ring setting? A split-shank setting features a band that divides into two separate strands as it approaches the centre stone, creating a dramatic frame for the diamond and adding visual interest to the band's profile. The split shank creates a sense of openness and architectural detail that a plain band does not. A cathedral setting raises the centre diamond above the plane of the band by arching the metal sides upward to hold the stone at a higher position, increasing the diamond's visibility and the dramatic effect of the ring's profile from the side. Both split-shank and cathedral settings suit round, oval, and cushion centres particularly well. They are generally not recommended for buyers with active lifestyles where the raised or complex band profile might catch on surfaces. Q7: Should I choose a solitaire or a halo engagement ring? Choose a solitaire if you want the focus entirely on the centre diamond's quality and character, prefer a cleaner and more minimal profile, want maximum compatibility with any wedding band style, or are prioritising a larger centre stone within your budget. Choose a halo if you want to maximise the visual impression of the centre stone at a given budget (the halo adds approximately 0.25 to 0.50 carats of perceived size), prefer a more dramatic and decorative ring profile, or are choosing a cushion, oval, pear, or heart shaped centre where the halo follows the distinctive shape outline. The halo also suits buyers who prefer more diamond presence overall. Both settings are equally appropriate for any occasion or lifestyle. The most practical deciding factor is whether you want maximum budget in the centre stone (solitaire) or maximum overall visual impression (halo). Q8: What is the most popular engagement ring setting in NZ? The solitaire remains the most popular engagement ring setting in New Zealand overall, accounting for the majority of engagement ring sales by style. The oval solitaire in 18ct yellow gold is currently TJ Diamond's most-requested configuration in New Zealand and the broader international market. Halo settings are the second most popular, particularly for cushion and oval centres. The hidden halo has seen strong growth in the NZ market since 2022. Bezel settings have grown steadily as buyers seek more minimalist aesthetics and practical durability. Three-stone settings remain popular for milestone occasions and for buyers who want more diamond presence without a halo. Pavé bands are the most popular band style addition to solitaire settings across all shapes and metals.  

When you research engagement rings, you will encounter two gold standards: 14ct (or 14k in US notation) and 18ct (or 18k). The number describes the purity of the gold as a fraction of 24 parts. Understanding what the difference actually means for a ring worn every day for a lifetime is worth spending five minutes on before you buy. What the Numbers Mean Gold type Pure gold content Alloy content Hallmark stamp 10ct gold 41.7% 58.3% alloy metals 417 14ct gold 58.3% 41.7% alloy metals 585 18ct gold 75% 25% alloy metals 750 22ct gold 91.6% 8.4% alloy metals 916 24ct gold 99.9% 0.1% trace only 999 The 750 stamp inside an 18ct gold ring means 750 parts per thousand (75%) pure gold. The 585 stamp inside a 14ct ring means 585 parts per thousand (58.5%) pure gold. Both are real gold. The question is how much. Colour — The Most Visible Difference The most immediately apparent difference between 14ct and 18ct gold is the colour depth of yellow and rose gold. 18ct yellow gold: Richer, deeper, more saturated yellow. The higher gold content produces the warm, vivid colour associated with high-quality fine jewellery. Develops a warm patina over decades of daily wear. 14ct yellow gold: Slightly paler, less saturated yellow. The higher alloy content dilutes the gold's natural colour. In direct comparison with 18ct, the difference is visible to most observers. 18ct rose gold: Warm blush warmth from the copper alloy, richer and more vivid than 14ct rose gold. No replating required. White gold (either carat): Both are typically rhodium-plated to achieve a white surface. The colour difference between 14ct and 18ct white gold is less visible in the plated state. Durability — The Counterintuitive Truth 14ct gold is technically harder than 18ct gold because the higher alloy content introduces harder metals into the structure. In practical terms, this means 14ct gold is slightly more scratch-resistant. However, this hardness advantage is often overstated. 18ct gold is more than durable enough for daily engagement ring wear and has been used as the standard for fine jewellery in most of the world for over a century. The hardness difference is meaningful in jewellery that will experience significant friction or mechanical stress, but a well-made engagement ring in 18ct gold worn in normal daily life will not show meaningful wear difference compared to 14ct over a realistic ownership period. 18ct gold is not softer in the sense that it needs to be treated differently. It is softer in the laboratory sense, meaning it yields at a higher applied force than 14ct. In daily wear, this distinction is not meaningful for most engagement ring owners. The Replating Question Yellow 18ct gold and rose 18ct gold never need replating. The metal surface is the actual gold alloy of the ring, not a coating. White 18ct gold is typically rhodium-plated to achieve a bright white surface. This plating wears with daily contact, typically requiring professional replating every 1-3 years. This maintenance requirement applies to white gold regardless of whether it is 14ct or 18ct. For a ring worn every day for decades, TJ Diamond recommends yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum over white gold, as these metals require no ongoing replating maintenance. Why Most US Retailers Use 14ct Gold The dominance of 14ct gold in the United States is a historical commercial standard. 14ct gold costs less per piece to produce (less pure gold), which allowed retailers to maintain higher profit margins while appearing price-competitive. In most other fine jewellery markets — New Zealand, the UK, Europe, and Australia — 18ct is the standard minimum for fine engagement rings. TJ Diamond uses 18ct gold as standard at every price point. For US buyers, this means the ring ships in the international quality standard at pricing that compares favourably with US 14ct retail prices, because TJ Diamond eliminates the retail markup layers between the Auckland workshop and the buyer. Browse our yellow gold engagement rings and  rose gold engagement rings — all in 18ct gold as standard. For buyers considering white metal, see our  engagement ring collection for the full range of metal options, or  contact us to discuss metal choices for your specific ring. Frequently Asked Questions   Q1: What is the difference between 14ct and 18ct gold? 14ct gold contains 58.3% pure gold, with the remainder made up of alloy metals such as copper, silver, zinc, or nickel. 18ct gold contains 75% pure gold with a smaller alloy proportion. The higher gold content in 18ct produces a richer, deeper colour in yellow and rose gold, and a more consistent white in white gold. 18ct gold is also less likely to cause skin reactions for buyers with metal sensitivities, as the lower alloy content means less exposure to nickel and other reactive metals. In terms of durability, 14ct gold is slightly harder due to its higher alloy content, but 18ct gold is more than sufficiently durable for daily engagement ring wear, and TJ Diamond has used 18ct gold as the standard for all engagement rings and wedding bands for this reason. Q2: Which is better for an engagement ring, 14ct or 18ct gold? 18ct gold is the better choice for an engagement ring for three reasons. First, richer colour: the higher gold content produces a deeper, more vivid yellow in yellow gold, and a warmer, more lustrous rose in rose gold. Second, better long-term appearance: 18ct gold develops a warm patina over decades of daily wear that enriches its character. 14ct gold develops a slightly more yellowish tint over time as the alloy composition ages. Third, metal standards: 18ct is the international standard for fine engagement rings in New Zealand, the United Kingdom, Europe, and Australia. Most Houston and US retailers default to 14ct at the same price point. TJ Diamond uses 18ct as standard at every price point. The extra gold content is included in TJ Diamond's price at no additional charge because it is the correct base material for a ring intended to be worn for a lifetime. Q3: Is 14ct gold real gold? Yes. 14ct gold is real gold. The carat number describes the gold purity as a fraction of 24 parts. 14ct gold is 14 parts gold and 10 parts alloy metals, making it 58.3% pure gold. 18ct gold is 18 parts gold and 6 parts alloy, making it 75% pure gold. 24ct gold is 99.9% pure gold. All three are real gold. The difference is the purity level and the proportion of alloy metals present, which affects colour, durability, and price. 14ct and 18ct are both common jewellery golds. 10ct gold (41.7% pure) is also produced, primarily in the United States, though it is at the lower end of what most international standards classify as fine jewellery. Q4: Does 18ct gold tarnish or need replating? Yellow 18ct gold and rose 18ct gold do not tarnish and never need replating. The gold surface is the actual metal of the ring, not a coating applied over a base metal. What appears as tarnishing on untreated gold is the natural development of a patina as the alloy metals in the surface slowly oxidise, which typically enriches rather than diminishes the appearance of yellow gold over decades. White 18ct gold is typically rhodium-plated to achieve a bright white surface. The rhodium plating is a coating that wears over time with daily wear, typically requiring professional replating every 1-3 years. For a ring worn every day for a lifetime, TJ Diamond recommends yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum over white gold, as these metals require no ongoing replating maintenance. Q5: Why do US jewellers use 14ct gold instead of 18ct? The dominance of 14ct gold in the United States is primarily a historical commercial standard that became entrenched in the 20th century. 14ct gold is harder and more scratch-resistant than 18ct gold due to its higher alloy content, which was historically cited as a practical advantage. It also costs less per piece to produce, which allowed retailers to maintain higher profit margins while appearing price-competitive. In most other fine jewellery markets globally, including New Zealand, the United Kingdom, Europe, and Australia, 18ct gold is the standard minimum for engagement rings. TJ Diamond ships 18ct gold rings to US buyers at prices that compare favourably with US 14ct gold retail prices, because TJ Diamond is a manufacturing-direct business without retail markup layers. Q6: What does 750 stamped inside a gold ring mean? 750 is the millesimal fineness stamp for 18ct gold, indicating that the alloy contains 750 parts per thousand (75%) of pure gold. It is the international hallmarking standard used in most countries outside the United States. Inside a gold ring you may also see 585 (14ct gold, 58.5% pure), 375 (9ct gold, 37.5% pure), or 916 (22ct gold, 91.6% pure). In the United States, the ct or k (karat) marking system is more common, so an 18ct ring stamped for the US market may show 18k or 18ct. All hallmarks refer to the same purity standards. A TJ Diamond 18ct gold ring will be stamped with the appropriate hallmark for its jurisdiction. Q7: Is 18ct gold more expensive than 14ct gold? Yes, 18ct gold contains more pure gold per gram than 14ct gold, so the raw material cost is higher. At equivalent ring weight, an 18ct gold ring costs approximately 20-30% more in raw gold content than the equivalent 14ct ring. However, the total price of a ring depends on many factors beyond the metal cost, including the diamond, the craftsmanship, and the retail model of the seller. TJ Diamond's manufacturing-direct model eliminates the retail markup layers that most US jewellers apply, meaning TJ Diamond's 18ct gold rings are often priced comparably to or below what US retailers charge for equivalent 14ct gold rings at retail. The higher quality metal is included at no additional retail premium. Q8: Can you tell the difference between 14ct and 18ct gold by looking at it? In many cases, yes. 18ct yellow gold has a richer, deeper, more saturated yellow colour than 14ct yellow gold. The difference is more apparent in yellow and rose gold than in white gold, where both are typically rhodium-plated to the same white surface. In isolation, most buyers cannot precisely identify whether an unmarked ring is 14ct or 18ct. In direct side-by-side comparison, the difference in yellow gold depth is usually visible to the unaided eye, with 18ct appearing noticeably more vivid and rich. Over decades of daily wear, the colour difference becomes more apparent as the rings develop their respective patinas.    

Both are independent, reputable certification labs. GIA applies slightly stricter standards for natural diamonds and is the most widely trusted globally. IGI is the standard certifier for lab-grown diamonds. TJ Diamond stocks both GIA and IGI certified stones and recommends GIA for natural diamonds and IGI for lab-grown. When you buy a diamond engagement ring, the certificate that accompanies it is your primary independent quality verification. Every diamond TJ Diamond sells carries either a GIA (Gemological Institute of America) or IGI (International Gemological Institute) certificate. This article explains what each certifier is, how their standards differ, and how to choose between them. What GIA and IGI Both Do Both GIA and IGI are independent gemological laboratories — they do not buy or sell diamonds. Their role is to assess the quality of diamonds submitted to them and issue a grading report documenting the four quality variables (cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight) to a defined standard. Neither lab has a financial interest in the grade the diamond receives. Both laboratories are accepted by jewellers, insurance companies, and diamond dealers globally. A GIA or IGI certificate accompanies the ring and can be used for insurance valuation, resale documentation, and independent quality verification. Both labs also provide online report verification tools where any buyer can confirm the certificate's authenticity by entering the report number. The Key Differences Factor GIA IGI Founded 1931 — oldest major diamond lab 1975 — largest by volume Grading standards More conservative, slightly stricter in middle grades Slightly less conservative in middle grades — same scale Natural diamond reputation Highest in the industry Well-respected, slightly below GIA for natural stones Lab-grown diamonds Certifies lab-grown, less common Industry standard for lab-grown diamonds Resale value (natural) Highest — GIA commands a premium Slightly below GIA on secondary market Resale value (lab-grown) Equivalent to IGI Equivalent to GIA for lab-grown Price per certificate Higher — premium for strict standards Lower — more accessible pricing Online verification gia.edu/report-check igi.org/verify Why GIA Is Preferred for Natural Diamonds GIA applies slightly stricter grading standards than IGI in the middle quality ranges (F-J colour, VS1-SI1 clarity). This means a GIA G VS2 natural diamond has been verified against a stricter standard than an IGI G VS2. In practice, two diamonds with identical certificate grades from different labs may not be identical stones. A GIA-graded stone at a given grade is more reliably within the stated grade range than an IGI-graded stone at the same grade. For natural diamonds where long-term resale value is a consideration, GIA is the preferred certificate. The secondary market for natural diamonds applies a modest premium to GIA-certified stones, particularly at the 1 carat and above level. GIA certificates are also the most universally accepted by US jewellers for trade-in or upgrade programs. Why IGI Is the Standard for Lab-Grown Diamonds The majority of lab-grown diamonds are IGI-certified, and IGI's lab-grown grading standards are well-established. GIA also certifies lab-grown diamonds, but GIA lab-grown certificates are less common in the market simply because most lab-grown diamond producers have standardised on IGI. Both are entirely appropriate for lab-grown diamond certification — the choice between them for lab-grown is less significant than for natural diamonds. Browse TJ Diamond's full selection of lab-grown diamonds — all available with IGI or GIA certification at equivalent quality grades to natural diamonds. What a Certificate Does Not Tell You A certificate documents grades — it does not show you what the stone looks like. Two diamonds with identical GIA grades can appear meaningfully different in person due to differences in specific facet arrangement within the grade range, inclusion placement (a cloud near the table vs an inclusion near the girdle), fluorescence character, and the individual proportions within the stated depth and table ranges. This is why TJ Diamond provides virtual consultations for every diamond: the certificate tells you what the grades are, and the consultation shows you what the stone actually looks like. For a complete explanation of what the 4Cs mean and how each affects a diamond's appearance, see our article what are the 4Cs of diamonds?. For an understanding of how certificate grades affect diamond pricing, see how much does a 1 carat diamond ring cost?. Browse our full engagement ring collection, or  contact us to ask about specific GIA or IGI certified stones and arrange a virtual consultation. Frequently Asked Questions Q1: What is the difference between GIA and IGI diamond certification? GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and IGI (International Gemological Institute) are both independent diamond grading laboratories that issue certificates documenting a diamond's cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight. GIA is the older and more established of the two, founded in 1931, and its grading standards are widely considered the most conservative and consistent in the industry. IGI was founded in 1975 and is the world's largest independent gem certification and appraisal institute by volume. Both certificates are accepted by insurance companies and jewellers globally. The primary differences: GIA applies slightly stricter grading standards than IGI in the middle quality ranges, and GIA certificates command a modest premium in the natural diamond resale market. For lab-grown diamonds, IGI is the more widely used certifier and their grading is well-regarded. Q2: Which certificate is better for an engagement ring, GIA or IGI? For natural diamonds, GIA is the more conservative and widely respected certification. A GIA-certified natural diamond with a given colour and clarity grade is typically graded to a slightly stricter standard than an IGI-certified diamond at the same grade, meaning a GIA G VS2 and an IGI G VS2 may not be identical stones even at the same certificate grades. For lab-grown diamonds, IGI has become the industry standard. The majority of lab-grown diamonds are IGI-certified, and IGI's lab-grown grading is well-established and widely accepted. TJ Diamond offers both GIA and IGI certified diamonds. For natural diamonds where long-term resale value is a consideration, GIA is generally preferred. For lab-grown diamonds, IGI is the standard choice and entirely appropriate. Q3: Does a GIA or IGI certificate guarantee diamond quality? A GIA or IGI certificate documents the diamond's measured grades at the time of grading — it is an objective record, not a guarantee of subjective quality. Two diamonds can carry identical GIA grades and appear meaningfully different in person due to differences in facet pattern, fluorescence character, inclusion placement (a cloud near the table vs an inclusion near the girdle), and the specific proportions within the grade range. The certificate provides the essential quality framework for comparison, but it does not replace in-person or virtual visual assessment. This is why TJ Diamond holds virtual consultations for every diamond before purchase — the certificate tells the buyer what the grades are, and the consultation shows the buyer what the stone actually looks like in the specific setting metal they have chosen. Q4: Is IGI trustworthy for lab-grown diamonds? Yes. IGI is the most widely used certifying laboratory for lab-grown diamonds and their lab-grown grading standards are well-established and consistently applied. The majority of lab-grown diamonds produced by leading growers are IGI-certified, and IGI certificates for lab-grown diamonds are accepted by jewellers, insurance companies, and resellers globally. GIA also certifies lab-grown diamonds and their grading is equally respected, though GIA lab-grown certificates are less common in the market. Both GIA and IGI lab-grown certificates use the same 4Cs grading framework as natural diamond certificates, with the addition of a notation indicating the diamond is laboratory-grown. Q5: Can you tell if a diamond is lab-grown from its GIA or IGI certificate? Yes. GIA and IGI certificates for lab-grown diamonds state explicitly on the certificate that the diamond is laboratory-grown, using wording such as "laboratory-grown," "lab-grown," or "synthetic" depending on the certifier and the year of certification. The certificate also typically notes the growth method (CVD or HPHT). A natural diamond certificate will not contain any such notation. The diamond's unique report number can be verified on the GIA or IGI online lookup tool, where the same information is visible. A buyer receiving a diamond with a certificate can therefore verify the natural or lab-grown status of any GIA or IGI certified stone independently and immediately. Q6: What does the GIA grading scale for diamond colour mean? The GIA colour grading scale for white diamonds runs from D (completely colourless) to Z (light yellow or brown). D, E, and F are colourless grades, visible as colourless to the naked eye in any setting. G, H, I, and J are near-colourless — appearing colourless to the naked eye in most settings, with slight warmth visible under magnification or in direct comparison with a D-F stone. K through Z show increasing visible warmth or yellow tint. For most engagement ring buyers, G or H colour represents the practical sweet spot: effectively colourless in the finished ring at a meaningfully lower price than D-F grades. The colour grade advantage of warm metal settings (yellow gold, rose gold) allows buyers to select H or I colour without visible warmth, saving significantly at any carat weight. Q7: How do I verify a GIA or IGI diamond certificate is genuine? Every GIA and IGI certificate carries a unique report number printed on the certificate. For GIA certificates, enter the report number at gia.edu/report-check to verify the certificate's authenticity and view the graded details. For IGI certificates, enter the report number at igi.org/verify to verify. The online record will confirm the same grades shown on the physical certificate. Most modern GIA and IGI certified diamonds also have the report number laser-inscribed on the girdle of the diamond itself (the narrow band around the edge), which can be verified under 10x magnification by any trained jeweller. TJ Diamond provides the specific certificate report number before any purchase is finalised, so buyers can independently verify the stone's grades before the ring ships. Q8: Do natural diamonds hold their value better than lab-grown diamonds? Natural diamonds have historically retained value better than lab-grown diamonds on the secondary market. Lab-grown diamond prices have declined significantly since 2020 as production technology has improved and production volumes have increased, reducing the price premium that early lab-grown diamonds commanded. As of 2025, lab-grown diamonds at retail are typically 50-70% below natural equivalents at the same quality grades. On resale, the gap is typically even larger. For buyers whose primary goal is a visually impressive ring within a defined budget, lab-grown provides the most stone presence per dollar. For buyers who specifically want a ring that holds secondary market value, natural diamonds remain the more conservative choice. TJ Diamond offers both natural and lab-grown diamonds with GIA and IGI certification, allowing buyers to make an informed choice based on their specific priorities.  

A proposal is one of the most significant moments in a relationship, and most of the pressure people feel around it is self-created. There is no single correct way to propose. There are only decisions that suit your partner and your relationship. This guide covers every practical question. Choosing the Ring — Surprise or Together? Surprise ring: Choose the ring yourself and present it at the proposal. Most emotionally impactful if you choose well. Carries the risk that the style does not match your partner's preference. Shop together first: Choose the ring design together before the formal proposal. Eliminates style risk entirely. The proposal moment itself is still meaningful you are still asking the question. Propose first, choose together after: Propose with a placeholder, then shop for the ring together after the engagement. Increasingly common separates the emotional proposal moment from the ring selection. Browse our full engagement ring collection to understand what is available before any conversation about rings. Secretly Finding the Ring Size Borrow a ring your partner wears on the ring finger of their left hand, trace the inner circle on paper, and measure the diameter. Return it before they notice. Ask a close family member or trusted friend who may already know. If no measurement is possible, the most common NZ women's engagement ring size is N (approximately US 6.75). TJ Diamond includes a complimentary resize within the first 12 months a slightly incorrect size is not a significant problem. For the full ring sizing guide including at-home measurement methods, see how to measure your ring size at home . What to Say When You Propose There are no required words. The most meaningful proposals speak authentically rather than reciting memorised lines. Three things make a proposal speech genuinely moving: Be specific about why you want to marry this particular person not generic declarations, but something true and particular to your relationship. Reference something shared a specific memory, a quality you admire, a moment of certainty. State clearly what you are asking. Do not leave it as an implied question. Shorter is often better than longer. Practise beforehand not to perform, but to avoid forgetting what you want to say in the moment. The proposal speech does not need to be perfect. It needs to be honest. Your partner will remember that you meant it, not that every word was elegantly chosen. Public or Private? Base this decision on your partner's personality, not on what creates the most impressive photograph. Ask yourself honestly: would your partner find a public proposal romantic, or anxiety-inducing? Private proposals suit partners who are reserved or uncomfortable with public attention. Public proposals suit partners who are genuinely outgoing and would love the shared witness but check honestly before choosing this. A small intimate group (close family, a few friends) offers a middle option witnessed and celebrated, but not performed for strangers. How to Present the Ring Present the ring in the box it came in. A quality ring box is a physical object many couples keep permanently. Open the box yourself and hold it while asking the question do not hand it over closed. If kneeling, hold the box at chest height so the ring is clearly visible. After the answer, offer to put the ring on their finger yourself this is the most emotionally resonant moment of the proposal. If photographs matter, arrange a camera setup in advance  ask a trusted friend, or use a stabilised phone mount. What If the Ring Does Not Fit? This is one of the most common proposal concerns and the least serious problem in practice. Ring sizing is correctable. The proposal moment is not. Most plain gold and platinum bands resize one to two sizes up or down without affecting the ring's integrity. TJ Diamond includes a complimentary resize within the first 12 months for any ring we make. If the ring does not fit on the ring finger at all at the proposal, put it on whatever finger fits for the moment. It can be resized before daily wear begins. For rings that are difficult to resize after setting, plain solitaire engagement rings are the simplest to resize and the most forgiving for surprise proposals. How Far in Advance to Order TJ Diamond recommends ordering at least 8-10 weeks before your intended proposal date for a standard ring, and 10-14 weeks for a bespoke design. All rings are handcrafted to order in Auckland — not pre-made stock. Browse our full engagement ring collection. Or  Contact our team to discuss your proposal timeline and confirm the production schedule for your ring and date. For help choosing the right diamond size, see what is a good size diamond for an engagement ring?  Related: What hand does your engagement ring go on? Frequently Asked Questions   Q1: When is the best time to propose? The best moment is the one most meaningful to you and your partner. Propose when you are both relaxed and not rushed, in a setting where interruptions are unlikely, and at a time of day when your partner is at their most receptive. Avoid proposing immediately before or after a high-stress event. The most memorable proposals are those where the person proposing has genuinely thought about what their partner would find meaningful, not what looks impressive on social media. Q2: Should you show your partner the ring before proposing? There are three valid approaches. The surprise proposal: choose the ring yourself and present it at the moment. The collaborative approach: shop for the ring together before the formal proposal. The proposal-first approach: propose without the ring, then choose the ring together afterward. Each approach has different strengths. The surprise creates the most spontaneous emotional moment; the collaborative approach eliminates any risk that the ring style does not match your partner's preference. Q3: How do I secretly find out my partner's ring size before proposing? Borrow a ring they already wear on the ring finger of the left hand, trace the inner circle on paper, and measure the diameter. Ask a close family member or trusted friend. If no measurement is possible, the most common NZ women's engagement ring size is N (approximately US 6.75) — a rough starting point only. TJ Diamond includes a complimentary resize within the first 12 months, so a slightly incorrect size is not a significant problem. Q4: What should I say when I propose? There are no required words. The most meaningful proposals speak authentically rather than reciting memorised lines. Be specific about why you want to marry this particular person, not generic. Reference something shared between you — a memory, a quality you admire, a moment of certainty. State clearly what you are asking. Practise beforehand so you are not reading from your phone. Shorter is often better than longer. Q5: What if my partner says they need time to think? Give them the space they ask for without repeated prompting. Someone who needs time to process is not saying no — they are being honest about needing time for something important. If this is a concern before proposing, a direct conversation about readiness for marriage before the formal proposal is always a valid approach. Q6: What is the best way to present the engagement ring? Present the ring in the box it came in. Open the box yourself and hold it while asking the question. If kneeling, hold the box at chest height so the ring is clearly visible. After the answer, offer to put the ring on their finger yourself — this is the most emotionally resonant moment of the proposal. If photographs matter to you, arrange a camera setup in advance. Q7: How far in advance should I order the ring before proposing? TJ Diamond recommends ordering at least 8-10 weeks before your intended proposal date for a standard ring, and 10-14 weeks for a bespoke design. All rings are handcrafted to order in Auckland — not pre-made stock. Contact TJ Diamond as soon as you have a clear idea of what you want and we will confirm the specific production schedule for your ring and date. Q8: Should I propose in public or private? Choose based on your partner's personality, not on what creates the most impressive photograph. If your partner is private or uncomfortable with public attention, propose somewhere intimate. If they are genuinely outgoing and would love a public moment, choose a setting accordingly. The proposal experience should be designed for your partner, not for an audience.  

The princess cut is the most popular non-round diamond shape in the world and the second most popular overall after the round brilliant. If you are considering a square diamond, this article covers everything you need to know. Where the Princess Cut Comes From The princess cut was created in 1979 by diamond cutters Betazel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. It is one of the newest major diamond cuts in regular production unlike the oval, cushion, and emerald cuts with histories stretching back decades or centuries. Ambar and Itzkowitz designed it to solve a specific problem: how to produce a square diamond with maximum brilliance while wasting as little of the original rough crystal as possible. Their solution maps closely to the natural octahedral shape of diamond rough two princess cuts can often be produced from one crystal with minimal waste. The 20-30% price advantage of the princess cut over round brilliants is not a quality compromise. It is engineering efficiency built into the shape at the point of cutting. Princess Cut vs Round Brilliant — The Key Differences Factor Round Brilliant Princess Cut Outline Circular Square with pointed corners Face-up at 1ct ~6.4mm diameter ~5.5mm per side Price per carat Highest — up to 60% rough waste 20-30% below round — efficient rough use GIA cut grade Formal scale: Excellent to Poor No formal overall cut grade — polish/symmetry only Corner vulnerability None 4 sharp corners — V-prong protection essential Chevron facet variants Standard 57 facets 2, 3, or 4 chevron patterns on pavilion The Corner Requirement — V-Prongs Are Essential The four sharp 90-degree corners are the princess cut's most structurally vulnerable points. A direct impact at a corner concentrates force at the single sharp edge, which is susceptible to chipping. V-shaped corner prongs cradle each corner edge on both sides, absorbing impact across the prong rather than the diamond. Standard round prongs leave the corner partially exposed. Every TJ Diamond princess cut ring uses V-shaped corner prongs as standard, across every ring style and occasion. The Chevron Facet Pattern — The Detail Most Buyers Miss Princess cut diamonds are produced with different numbers of chevron facets on the pavilion. This affects the visual sparkle character and is not disclosed on any certificate. Two chevron patterns: Larger, more defined facets produce bold, high-contrast flashes  similar in character to a round brilliant. Three chevron patterns: Intermediate. Balanced between bold and intricate. Four chevron patterns: The smallest facets produce the most intricate, scintillating sparkle the most distinctly princess-specific visual character. The chevron count must be assessed in person. TJ Diamond holds princess cut diamonds with different chevron counts in our Auckland studio for direct comparison. Princess Cut vs Cushion Cut Both are square or near-square brilliant cuts. The princess has sharp pointed corners requiring V-prong protection; the cushion has soft rounded corners without corner vulnerability. The princess reads as modern and geometric; the cushion reads as vintage and romantic. See our cushion engagement rings collection for direct comparison. Ring Settings for Princess Cut Diamonds Princess engagement rings four-corner V-prong solitaires and all engagement ring styles for the princess cut. Princess cut diamond rings broader occasion range including anniversary, fashion, and self-purchase princess cut rings. Channel setting the flat sides of the princess cut align naturally with channel walls for a clean architectural look. Bezel setting the metal rim encircles all four corners for maximum protection and a sleek contemporary profile. Princess Cut Pricing in NZ Princess cut diamond rings at TJ Diamond start from $999 NZD. The 20-30% price advantage over rounds applies at all quality levels. For a complete NZ price breakdown by carat weight and quality grade, see how much does a 1 carat diamond ring cost?  Contact us to compare princess cut diamonds at different chevron counts in our Auckland studio before deciding. Related: What is the best diamond cut for maximum sparkle? Frequently Asked Questions   Q1: What is a princess cut diamond? A princess cut diamond is a square or near-square diamond with four pointed corners and brilliant-cut facets applied throughout. It is the second most popular diamond shape globally after the round brilliant, and the most popular square diamond shape. Created in 1979, it delivers brilliance and fire comparable to a round brilliant within a square outline at a price typically 20-30% lower. Q2: Is a princess cut diamond more affordable than a round brilliant? Yes — princess cut diamonds are typically priced 20-30% less per carat than round brilliants at equivalent quality grades. The princess cut's square pyramid outline maps closely to the natural octahedral shape of diamond rough, wasting significantly less material in cutting. Two princess cuts can often be produced from a single octahedral crystal with minimal waste, while a round brilliant loses up to 60% of the original rough. Q3: What is the most important quality factor for a princess cut diamond? Cut quality is the most important factor. For the princess cut specifically, the chevron or wing facet pattern on the pavilion significantly affects the visual character of the sparkle — two chevron patterns produce bold, distinct flashes; four chevron patterns produce more numerous, smaller sparkle points. The chevron count must be assessed in person and does not appear on any certificate. After cut quality, colour grade matters most. Q4: Do princess cut diamonds require special prong protection? Yes. The four sharp 90-degree corners are the shape's most structurally vulnerable points. A direct impact at a corner concentrates force on the single sharp edge and the corner is susceptible to chipping. V-shaped corner prongs cradle each corner on both sides, protecting the point from direct impact. Standard round prongs leave the corner partially exposed. TJ Diamond sets every princess cut ring with V-shaped corner prongs as standard. Q5: What is the difference between a princess cut and a cushion cut? Both are square or near-square brilliant cuts. A princess cut has four sharp 90-degree corners, producing a precise geometric square. A cushion cut has soft, rounded corners, producing a warmer pillow-like outline. The princess reads as modern and geometric; the cushion reads as vintage and romantic. The princess requires V-prong corner protection; the cushion's rounded corners carry no equivalent vulnerability. Q6: What is the ideal length-to-width ratio for a princess cut diamond? For a princess cut that reads as perfectly square, a length-to-width ratio of 1.00 to 1.05 is ideal. Ratios above 1.10 begin to appear noticeably rectangular. The princess cut's primary appeal is its pure square geometric character — buyers who want the most characteristic look should prioritise ratios as close to 1.00 as possible. Q7: What ring settings work best with a princess cut diamond? The most important setting requirement is V-shaped prongs at all four corners. A four-corner prong solitaire with V-prongs is the most classic setting. A channel setting suits the flat sides of the princess cut well. A bezel encircles all four corners for maximum protection and a sleek look. A halo of smaller round diamonds creates strong visual contrast between the square centre and circular accent diamonds. Q8: How much does a princess cut diamond ring cost in NZ? Princess cut diamond rings at TJ Diamond start from $999 NZD. The 20-30% price advantage over round brilliants applies across all carat weights and quality grades. A 1-carat princess cut in G colour, VS2 clarity, 18ct gold solitaire typically ranges from $3,500 to $11,000 NZD depending on specific grades. Lab-grown princess cut diamonds are available at an additional 50-70% saving.  

Getting the ring size right before ordering is one of the most practically important steps in buying any ring and one of the most commonly mishandled. This guide covers three methods for measuring ring size at home, ranked by accuracy, plus the five most common mistakes that produce incorrect measurements even when the method is followed correctly. The most accurate sizing is always taken in person at TJ Diamond's Auckland studio using calibrated metal sizing rings. At-home methods are good for planning and approximate sizing. For any ring intended for daily wear confirm the size in person before crafting begins. New Zealand Ring Sizing — The UK Letter System New Zealand uses the UK ring sizing system: letters rather than numbers. The most common NZ women's sizes are L to N (US 5.75 to 6.75). The most common NZ men's sizes are S to V (US 9.25 to 10.75). These are population averages  always measure the specific finger. NZ/UK Size US Size (approx) Circumference (mm) Diameter (mm) J 4.75 48.7 15.5 K 5.25 50.3 16.0 L 5.75 51.9 16.5 M 6.25 53.5 17.0 N 6.75 55.1 17.5 O 7.25 56.6 18.0 P 7.75 58.3 18.6 Q 8.25 59.9 19.1 R 8.75 61.4 19.6 S 9.25 63.0 20.1 T 9.75 64.6 20.6 U 10.25 66.2 21.1 V 10.75 67.8 21.6 W 11.25 69.4 22.1 Featured snippet target: "ring size chart NZ" — this table with NZ/UK letter, US size, circumference and diameter is what Google surfaces for this query. Method 1 — Paper Strip (Most Accurate) Cut a strip of paper approximately 1cm wide and 15cm long. Wrap snugly around the base of the correct finger tight enough not to slide over the knuckle, not so tight it creases the skin. Mark where the paper overlaps. Lay flat and measure the distance in millimetres. Find the millimetre circumference in the table above. That is your NZ/UK ring size. Measure in the evening fingers are at their largest in the evening and smallest in the morning. A morning measurement consistently produces a size too small. Method 2 — Existing Ring (Good Accuracy) Use a ring that fits the correct finger comfortably  on the same hand, same finger as the new ring. Place flat on paper, trace the inner circle. Measure the inner diameter in millimetres. Find the diameter in the table above. Note: ring size differs between the left and right ring finger. Always measure the specific hand and finger. Method 3 — String (Least Accurate) Wrap string around the finger and measure. String compresses under tension and gives a reading 1-3mm smaller than the actual circumference. If using this method, add 3mm to your measured length before looking up the size chart. Use as a rough starting point only. Your browser does not support the video tag. The Five Most Common Sizing Mistakes Measuring in the morning: Fingers are at their smallest. Produces a size too small. Measuring in cold temperatures: Cold contracts fingers. Measure at normal room temperature. Not checking knuckle clearance: The ring must pass over the knuckle. If the knuckle is significantly larger than the base of the finger, size to the knuckle. Measuring the wrong hand or finger: Left and right ring fingers are different sizes. Measure the exact finger the ring will be worn on. Taking only one measurement: Finger size fluctuates. Take three measurements at different times of day and use the middle value. Band Width and Sizing A wider band feels tighter than a narrow band at the same nominal size. If ordering a band wider than 4mm, consider sizing up half a size. TJ Diamond jewellers account for band width when taking measurements in person  this adjustment cannot be captured by circumference measurements alone. Surprise Proposals — Ring Size Without Measuring If a measurement is not possible before proposing, borrow a ring your partner wears on the ring finger of the left hand, trace the inner circle, and measure the diameter. Alternatively, ask a close family member. The most common NZ women's engagement ring size is N (approximately US 6.75)  but this is only an average. For any uncertainty, choose a plain solitaire or a half-set design that can be resized after the proposal. Browse our engagement rings and wedding bands  or book a studio sizing appointment at our Auckland studio before your ring is made. Our lifetime warranty includes one complimentary resize within the first 12 months for any TJ Diamond ring. If you are choosing a simpler design with maximum versatility, see our solitaire engagement rings collection  solitaires are the easiest engagement ring design to resize after a proposal. Related: What is an eternity ring?  Frequently Asked Questions   Q1: What ring sizing system does New Zealand use? New Zealand uses the UK ring sizing system, which expresses sizes as letters rather than numbers. The scale runs from A (smallest commercial size) upward, with half sizes expressed as a letter and a half (for example, M or M½). This differs from the US system (which uses whole and half numbers like size 6 or 6.5) and the European system (which uses millimetre circumference). When ordering from TJ Diamond, you can provide your size in NZ/UK letters, US numbers, or millimetre circumference — our team will confirm the correct conversion before your ring is crafted. Q2: What is the most common ring size for women in New Zealand? The most common NZ/UK ring sizes for women are L to N, which corresponds to approximately US sizes 5.75 to 6.75 and a finger circumference of approximately 51.9mm to 55.1mm. However, ring size varies considerably between individuals and is not reliably correlated with height, weight, hand size, or any other physical characteristic. Population averages are a starting point for a surprise purchase when no measurement is possible — they are not a substitute for actual measurement. For any ring intended for daily wear, TJ Diamond recommends measuring the specific finger in person at our Auckland studio. Q3: Can I measure my ring size at home without any tools? A rough estimate is possible without tools, but not a reliable measurement for a fine ring. Without tools, you can wrap a piece of string or a strip of paper around the finger and mark where it overlaps, then measure that length. The paper strip method is more accurate than string because string compresses under tension and consistently produces a measurement smaller than the actual finger circumference. For any measurement that will be used to craft a ring, particularly a full eternity band or a design that cannot be easily resized, TJ Diamond strongly recommends coming into our Auckland studio for professional sizing using calibrated metal sizing rings. Q4: Why do fingers change size throughout the day? Finger size fluctuates with temperature, time of day, recent exercise, fluid intake, and in some individuals, hormonal cycles. Fingers are typically at their smallest in the morning and at their largest in the evening, because warmth and circulatory activity throughout the day cause soft tissue to expand slightly. Cold temperatures cause fingers to contract; warm temperatures cause them to expand. The difference between a morning and evening measurement on the same finger can be up to one full ring size. For a consistent result, TJ Diamond recommends measuring in the evening at normal room temperature, ideally after light activity. Q5: Does ring width affect ring size? Yes, and this is one of the most commonly overlooked sizing factors. A wider band compresses more of the finger's surface than a narrow band, and as a result feels tighter at the same nominal size. A 7mm wedding band sized the same as a 2mm engagement ring band will feel noticeably tighter in wear. As a general guide, if you are ordering a band wider than 4mm, consider going up half a size from your standard measurement. TJ Diamond's jewellers account for band width in the sizing recommendation during Auckland studio appointments — this adjustment is not captured by circumference measurements alone. Q6: What happens if my ring does not fit after delivery? Plain gold and platinum bands can typically be resized up or down one to two sizes by a skilled jeweller without affecting the ring's integrity. TJ Diamond's lifetime warranty includes one complimentary resize within the first 12 months of purchase for any ring we make. Rings with diamonds set around the full circumference — full eternity bands, full pave rings — cannot be conventionally resized because the stone settings run through the section that would be added or removed. Channel-set and heavily embellished rings are more complex to resize than plain bands. For these styles, accurate pre-order sizing is essential. Q7: How do I find my ring size if I want to propose as a surprise? Several approaches work for a surprise proposal. If your partner owns a ring they wear on the ring finger of their left hand (the most common engagement ring finger), borrow it temporarily and trace the inner circle, then measure the diameter. Alternatively, ask a family member or close friend who may know the size. If no measurement is possible, the most common NZ women's engagement ring size is N (approximately US 6.75), but this is only an average. TJ Diamond recommends ordering a surprise engagement ring in a plain solitaire setting or a half-set design that can be resized, and bringing your partner in after the proposal for accurate sizing before the final ring style is confirmed. Q8: Is my ring finger the same size on both hands? Almost never. The ring finger on the left hand and the ring finger on the right hand are typically different sizes — often by half a size or more. This occurs because most people have a dominant hand that is slightly more developed through daily use, and dominant-hand fingers are often marginally larger. Always measure the specific finger on the specific hand the ring will be worn on. Do not assume that a size taken from your right ring finger applies to your left ring finger, or vice versa. If you are ordering a ring intended for the left hand, measure the left ring finger specifically.    

The bow-tie effect is a shadow pattern visible across the widest central section of certain elongated diamond shapes most commonly oval, pear, and marquise cuts. It appears as a dark horizontal area in the shape of a bow tie, running across the stone's midsection. In a well-cut diamond, it is subtle and adds depth. In a poorly cut stone, it is a dominant dark shadow that significantly detracts from the ring's visual appeal. The bow-tie effect does not appear on any GIA or IGI certificate. It cannot be assessed from photographs. It must be seen in person. This is the most important quality consideration for any elongated brilliant diamond, and the primary reason TJ Diamond assesses every oval, pear, and marquise diamond individually before setting. A diamond can carry a GIA Excellent certificate and a pronounced bow-tie shadow. The certificate does not disclose it. A product photograph will not show it. You need to see the stone in person. Why the Bow-Tie Happens In a round brilliant, the circular outline creates a symmetric facet arrangement where light entering from any direction is returned roughly equally from all parts of the stone. In an elongated shape oval, pear, marquise  the central facets are oriented differently from the facets at the rounded ends or pointed tips. In the central section, light reflecting off the pavilion facets exits through the sides of the stone rather than returning through the table to the observer's eye. This creates the characteristic dark shadow across the widest point. The size and intensity of the bow-tie depends on the diamond's specific pavilion facet angles in the central zone. A cutter who optimises the central angles can minimise the bow-tie. A cutter who maximises carat retention from the rough at the expense of proportional correctness produces a more pronounced shadow. Which Shapes Are Affected Oval diamond rings — the shape most significantly affected. The bow-tie falls directly across the most prominent visible area of the stone. See our oval engagement rings and our  oval diamond rings collections for our selection of individually assessed oval stones. Pear diamond rings — affected similarly to oval. The bow-tie typically appears lower in the stone, closer to the widest point. Wing symmetry significantly affects how evenly the shadow falls. See our pear engagement rings collection. Marquise diamond rings — both pointed tips converge, and the bow-tie appears across the widest central section. See our marquise engagement rings collection. Round brilliant, emerald, princess, radiant — not affected. Round brilliants have symmetric light return. Step-cut and princess/radiant facet arrangements do not produce this shadow pattern. Bow-Tie Severity — What Each Level Looks Like Severity What you see TJ Diamond stance None to minimal No visible shadow. Rare. Outstanding light return throughout. Select — exceptional quality Subtle Slight depth shadow in overhead light. Adds dimension. Considered desirable. Select — realistic optimum for most ovals Moderate Visible shadow in most conditions. Detracts from brilliance. Reject — below acceptable threshold Severe Dark butterfly immediately obvious. Dominates the stone. Reject — immediately apparent to all observers Why Photographs Cannot Show It Product photography uses a direct overhead light source — the exact condition that minimises bow-tie visibility. The same diamond that photographs brilliantly under studio lighting may display a pronounced shadow under the natural daylight or indoor lighting where it will actually be worn. Never assess an oval, pear, or marquise diamond from photographs alone. How to Assess It In Person View under multiple light sources. Move from direct overhead light to natural window light this reveals the real-world appearance. Tilt the stone side to side. A well-cut oval's bow-tie shifts with movement. A severe bow-tie maintains a fixed dark shadow regardless of angle. Compare two diamonds side by side. Bow-tie severity is much clearer in direct comparison than assessed in isolation. Ask whether the stone was individually assessed before purchase. TJ Diamond assesses every oval, pear, and marquise diamond for bow-tie severity at point of selection not from certificates. Is a Subtle Bow-Tie Desirable? Yes. A completely bow-tie-free oval is extremely rare and the cutting trade-offs required to achieve it often reduce other proportional qualities. Many experienced buyers and gemologists consider a subtle, well-contained bow-tie to add depth and dimension making the stone appear to have more internal volume than a completely flat-looking stone. The goal is not zero bow-tie. It is a bow-tie subtle enough to add depth without dominating the stone's appearance. TJ Diamond holds multiple oval and pear diamonds for side-by-side comparison at any studio consultation. Book a consultation to assess bow-tie in person. See our article on the best diamond cut for maximum sparkle for how the bow-tie fits into the wider picture of cut quality and light performance. Related: What is the best diamond cut for maximum sparkle? Frequently Asked Questions Q1: What is the bow-tie effect in a diamond? The bow-tie effect is a dark shadow pattern visible across the widest central section of certain fancy-shape diamonds — most commonly oval, pear, and marquise cuts. It appears as a dark horizontal area resembling a bow tie or butterfly shape, running across the stone's midsection and interrupting the diamond's brilliance in that region. The effect is caused by the optical geometry of elongated brilliant-cut diamonds, where light entering from above reflects off the central pavilion facets and exits through the sides of the stone rather than returning to the observer's eye. In a well-cut diamond, the bow-tie is subtle. In a poorly cut stone, it can be a dominant dark shadow. Q2: Does the bow-tie effect appear on a GIA or IGI certificate? No. The bow-tie effect does not appear on any GIA or IGI certificate. No diamond grading laboratory includes bow-tie severity in its grading reports because the effect is a viewing-condition-dependent optical characteristic rather than a measurable physical property of the stone. This means a diamond can have a pronounced bow-tie shadow and receive a GIA Excellent cut grade for its round dimensions (polish and symmetry) without the bow-tie being disclosed anywhere on the certificate. The bow-tie must be assessed visually, in person, under multiple light sources. This is one of the primary reasons TJ Diamond assesses every oval, pear, and marquise diamond individually before selection. Q3: Which diamond shapes are affected by the bow-tie effect? The bow-tie effect primarily affects elongated brilliant-cut diamond shapes: oval (most commonly and significantly affected), pear, and marquise. Elongated cushion cuts can also exhibit a similar shadow pattern in some cases. Shapes that are not affected include: round brilliant (symmetric light return from all directions prevents the shadow), emerald cut and Asscher cut (step-cut facets produce a different reflective pattern), princess cut (square brilliant facet arrangement does not produce the elongated shadow), and radiant cut (trimmed corners allow more even light distribution than strict elliptical outlines). Q4: Is some bow-tie effect desirable? Yes — a subtle bow-tie is considered desirable by many experienced diamond buyers and gemologists. A completely bow-tie-free oval diamond is technically possible but extremely rare, and the cutting required to achieve it typically involves trade-offs in other proportional qualities. A subtle, well-contained bow-tie creates an impression of depth and dimension, making the stone appear to have more internal volume than a completely flat-looking stone without any shadow contrast. The target for a well-cut oval, pear, or marquise diamond is not zero bow-tie — it is a bow-tie subtle enough to add depth without dominating the stone's appearance. TJ Diamond rejects diamonds with moderate or severe bow-ties, but selects those with subtle bow-tie depth. Q5: Can you see the bow-tie effect in product photographs? No — product photography almost always hides the bow-tie effect. Diamond ring photography uses a direct overhead light source positioned to maximise sparkle for the image. This specific lighting condition is precisely the one that minimises the bow-tie's visibility, because the overhead light directly illuminates the central facets that would otherwise be in shadow. A diamond can photograph as brilliantly sparkly under studio lighting and display a pronounced dark shadow under the office lighting or natural daylight where it will actually be worn. This is why viewing any oval, pear, or marquise diamond in person under multiple light conditions is essential before purchasing. Q6: How do I assess the bow-tie effect when buying an oval diamond ring? Three steps: First, view the diamond under multiple light sources — direct overhead light minimises the bow-tie; move the stone toward a window or under diffuse ambient light to see its real-world appearance. Second, tilt the stone slowly from side to side — a well-cut oval's bow-tie should shift and change as the stone moves, indicating good overall light return. A severe bow-tie maintains a fixed dark shadow regardless of movement. Third, compare two diamonds side by side under the same conditions — bow-tie severity is much easier to assess relatively than in isolation. TJ Diamond holds multiple oval and pear diamonds for comparison during Auckland studio consultations. Q7: Do oval diamond rings always have a bow-tie effect? Almost all oval diamonds have some degree of bow-tie effect — it is an optical characteristic inherent to the elongated brilliant cut geometry rather than a cutting flaw. The question is severity, not presence. The range runs from imperceptible (a very slight depth shadow that most observers would not notice and that adds dimension) to severe (a dark butterfly shadow immediately visible to any observer that significantly reduces the ring's visual appeal). TJ Diamond's selection process rejects stones with moderate or severe bow-ties and selects stones where the bow-tie is subtle or minimal. Our Auckland jewellers assess this for every oval, pear, and marquise diamond before it enters our workshop. Q8: Does the bow-tie affect an oval diamond's price? The bow-tie effect is not graded and does not appear on certificates, so it does not directly affect the wholesale price of a diamond. However, a well-cut oval with a minimal bow-tie commands a premium in the fine jewellery market because experienced buyers and jewellers know the quality difference. At TJ Diamond, we source ovals specifically for cut quality and bow-tie assessment — this means our selection skews toward better-cut stones, and our prices reflect the quality of the selection process rather than raw certificate grades alone. A cheaper oval diamond from a less selective source may have a more pronounced bow-tie at the same certificate grades.    

An eternity ring is a band set with diamonds running either fully around the circumference or along the top half only. The unbroken circuit of stones no beginning, no end is both the design and the meaning: an enduring love, a lasting commitment, a milestone that has no natural stopping point. At TJ Diamond, eternity rings are among our most requested commissions after engagement rings. Full Eternity vs Half Eternity — The Decision That Matters Most Full eternity ring: Diamonds set continuously around the entire band. The most visually impressive configuration. Cannot be conventionally resized after setting accurate sizing before ordering is essential. Half eternity ring: Diamonds set along the top half only, with plain metal on the underside. Can be resized one to two sizes. From the front, indistinguishable from a full eternity in most viewing conditions. If you are ordering as a surprise gift, choose a half eternity. The plain metal underside allows conventional resizing after the ring is received. A full eternity ordered in the wrong size cannot be easily corrected. Setting Styles for Eternity Rings Channel setting: Each diamond held between two parallel metal rails. Smooth, flush, snag-free. The best daily-wear configuration. Most popular for eternity wedding bands. Prong setting: Each diamond held by individual claws. More light reaches the stone higher sparkle. Requires annual prong inspection. TJ Diamond lifetime warranty covers this at no charge. Pave setting: Very small diamonds set closely together with tiny metal beads. A continuous river of sparkle. Most luxurious appearance. Requires careful wear and regular inspection. Diamond Shapes in Eternity Rings Round brilliant diamonds — tile evenly around any band width for a seamless, gapless circuit of sparkle. See our full round engagement rings collection for our available round stone specifications. Princess cut diamonds — square outline tiles as cleanly as round. Geometric and contemporary character. Emerald cut eternity bands — three rectangular step-cut stones side by side create a striking architectural band. A deeply sophisticated alternative to brilliant cuts. When to Give an Eternity Ring Milestone anniversary — 5, 10, 20, 25, or 50 years. The most traditional occasion. The unbroken diamond circuit references the duration of the relationship. Birth of a first child. A circle of diamonds referencing new beginnings. A narrow pave eternity in rose gold is among our most popular configurations for this occasion. As a wedding band alongside an engagement ring — a full or half eternity creates a deeply impressive bridal combination. See our full wedding bands collection for all band styles. Milestone birthday or self-purchase. The unbroken circuit carries personal meaning equally well — a significant life chapter, an achievement, a new beginning. Metal Choice for Eternity Rings Platinum: platinum engagement rings never needs replating, work-hardens rather than eroding, most hypoallergenic. The most popular eternity ring metal at TJ Diamond. The dimensional integrity of the band setting is best preserved over decades in platinum. Yellow gold: yellow gold engagement rings also never needs replating. Provides the colour grade advantage (G-H colour diamonds appear as colourless in yellow gold). Strong return in popularity in NZ in 2024-25. Rose gold: warm, romantic, no replating required. Particularly popular for first-child eternity rings. Your browser does not support the video tag. Sizing — The Most Important Practical Note Full eternity rings cannot be conventionally resized. There is no plain metal section available for size adjustment. For full eternity rings, TJ Diamond takes the measurement in our Auckland studio using calibrated metal sizing rings, and accounts for band width  wider bands feel tighter and require a slightly larger size. For any uncertainty about sizing, choose a half eternity. Browse our full range of diamond wedding bands and eternity ring styles or contact us to discuss your eternity ring requirements and book a studio sizing appointment. Related: Engagement ring vs wedding ring Frequently Asked Questions   Q1: What is the difference between a full eternity ring and a half eternity ring? A full eternity ring has diamonds set continuously around the entire circumference of the band. A half eternity ring has diamonds set along approximately the top half only, with plain metal on the sides and underside. The most important practical difference is resizability: a half eternity can typically be resized one to two sizes because the plain metal sections allow conventional size adjustment. A full eternity cannot be conventionally resized after setting because the stone settings run through the section that would be added or removed. If you are ordering a full eternity ring, accurate sizing before the ring is made is essential. Q2: When is an eternity ring traditionally given? The most traditional occasion is a significant wedding anniversary — five years, ten years, twenty-five years, or fifty years. The unbroken circuit of diamonds references the duration of the relationship: no beginning, no end. Other increasingly common occasions in New Zealand include the birth of a first child, a milestone birthday, and as a wedding band alongside an engagement ring. There is no rule about when an eternity ring must be given. Any occasion that carries the meaning of enduring love or commitment is appropriate. Q3: Can an eternity ring be worn as a wedding band? Yes. An eternity ring worn as a wedding band at the ceremony is one of the most popular configurations at TJ Diamond. A full or half eternity in platinum or yellow gold worn beside or instead of a traditional plain band creates an impressive bridal combination. The most important consideration when wearing an eternity ring as a wedding band is that it must be sized precisely before ordering, because it cannot be easily resized after setting if it contains diamonds around the full circumference. Q4: What is the difference between a channel-set and prong-set eternity ring? In a channel-set eternity ring, each diamond is held between two parallel metal rails rather than by individual prongs. The result is a smooth, flush surface with no protruding elements — the most snag-free configuration for daily wear. In a prong-set eternity ring, each diamond has its own individual claws, typically four per stone. More diamond surface is exposed to light in a prong-set ring, producing slightly more brilliance and scintillation. Prong-set eternity rings require periodic prong inspection — TJ Diamond recommends a professional check every 12 months. Our lifetime warranty covers this prong maintenance at no charge. Q5: Can a full eternity ring be resized? A full eternity ring cannot be conventionally resized after setting because the stone settings run continuously around the entire band — there is no plain metal section to add or remove for a size adjustment. If a full eternity ring is the wrong size, the options are limited to: wearing it on a different finger, having the stones reset into a new band of the correct size (significant cost), or in some cases adding small ring sizers to the inside of the shank. This is why precise pre-order sizing at TJ Diamond's Auckland studio is so important for full eternity rings. If you are ordering as a surprise gift, a half eternity is strongly recommended. Q6: What metal is best for an eternity ring? Platinum is the most popular metal for eternity rings at TJ Diamond for three reasons: it never needs replating (white gold requires rhodium replating every 1-3 years), it work-hardens rather than eroding with daily wear so the band retains its dimensional integrity over decades, and it is the most hypoallergenic precious metal available. Yellow gold is the second most popular choice — it also never needs replating, provides a colour grade advantage for the diamonds it holds (G and H colour stones appear as colourless in yellow gold), and has seen a significant return in popularity in New Zealand in 2024-25. Q7: How much does an eternity ring cost in NZ? Eternity rings at TJ Diamond start from $999 NZD for a diamond-set half eternity band. The total price depends on: the total diamond carat weight across all stones, the diamond quality (colour and clarity), the setting style (channel, prong, or pave), the metal (yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum), and whether the ring is a full or half eternity. Lab-grown diamonds make eternity rings significantly more accessible — the same visual impact with 50-70% less spend on the diamond content. Contact us for a personalised quote based on your specific eternity ring requirements. Q8: What diamond shape works best in an eternity ring? Round brilliant diamonds are the most popular and most practical choice for eternity rings. Their circular outline tiles evenly around the band at any width, producing a continuous, gapless circuit of sparkle. Princess cut diamonds also tile well due to their square outline. Emerald cut eternity rings are a beautiful option for buyers who want the step-cut architectural character in a band format — three emerald cuts side by side create a striking geometric composition. Oval, cushion, and pear shapes can be used in eternity bands but require more careful spacing and produce a slightly less seamless result than round or princess cuts.