Choosing an engagement ring is exciting, but it can also feel overwhelming. Carats, grades, metals, settings: there's a lot to take in. The good news is that only a few things really change how a ring looks and how long it lasts.
As jewelry makers, we see every ring from the inside out. Here's what we'd tell a friend before they start shopping.
1. Cut matters most
Cut is what makes a diamond sparkle. It decides how well the stone catches light and sends it back to your eye.
A well-cut diamond with a lower color or clarity grade often looks better than a poorly cut "perfect" one. Place a smaller ideal-cut stone next to a bigger poorly cut one, and most people pick the smaller stone. If you only spend extra on one thing, make it cut.
2. Lab-grown makes top color affordable
Diamond color is graded from D (completely colorless) down the alphabet. D, E and F are the top three grades: the whitest, brightest diamonds you can buy.
With mined diamonds, these top grades come with a big price jump. Lab-grown changes that. It's why every diamond we sell is D to F color, so your stone looks icy white in any metal, from white gold to warm yellow and rose gold.
3. Lab-grown diamonds are real diamonds
Lab-grown diamonds are made of the same carbon crystal as mined diamonds. They have the same hardness, the same sparkle and the same fire. The only difference is where they formed: in a lab instead of deep in the earth.
They usually cost much less than a mined diamond of the same size and quality. They also avoid the environmental and ethical concerns that can come with mining. One honest note: lab-grown diamonds don't hold much resale value, so choose one because you love it, not as an investment.
4. Always get a grading report
A grading report from an independent lab, such as IGI or GIA, confirms the diamond's cut, color, clarity and carat weight. It also states whether the stone is lab-grown or natural.
Many certified diamonds have their report number laser-inscribed on the edge of the stone. Ask your jeweler to show you the inscription under magnification, then look up the number on the lab's website. It takes two minutes and gives you real peace of mind.
5. Check the setting, not just the stone
The setting is what keeps your diamond safe every day. Look for prongs that are even, snug and not too thin. Thin prongs can bend over time and let the stone come loose. The metal should also carry a stamp, such as 14K or 18K.
6. 18K gold is great for holding a diamond
18K gold is 75% pure gold. It's softer than 14K, which lets the jeweler shape the prongs tightly around the stone for a secure fit. It also has a richer, warmer color.
7. Think about the wedding band too
Some engagement rings don't sit flush against a wedding band, which leaves a gap between them. If you want the two to sit neatly together, try them on as a pair before you buy. A matching or contoured band can solve the problem.
8. Ask about aftercare
A ring is worn every day for years, so ask what happens after you buy it. Good questions include:
Is resizing included?
What does the warranty cover?
How often should the prongs be checked?
Will white gold need re-plating, and what does it cost?
At TJ Gold & Diamond, every ring comes with our lifetime warranty, which includes:
Free professional cleaning and polishing
Prong and setting inspections
Prong tightening
Free resizing for life
Free rhodium plating for life
Lifetime manufacturing guarantee
Buy-back guarantee
We also offer a one-month engagement replacement. If your partner doesn't love the ring, we'll replace it within one month of purchase.
Why buy direct from the maker
At TJ Gold & Diamond, we design and make our rings in-house. Buying direct from the manufacturer means no middleman and no retail markup, so more of your budget goes into the ring itself.
We specialize in ethical lab-grown diamonds set in solid gold, and we're happy to walk you through every choice in this guide, from cut to metal to fit.
Ready to find your ring? Browse our engagement ring collection or get in touch to design something that's completely yours.
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Quick answer: Yes. Natural pink diamonds exist and are among the rarest and most valuable gemstones in the world. They get their colour from a physical distortion of the diamond crystal structure, not from trace elements. The Argyle mine in Western Australia was the world's dominant source, supplying over 90 percent of global supply before closing in 2020. With Argyle now closed, natural pink diamonds are rarer than ever and prices continue to rise.
Pink diamonds occupy a unique position in the gem world. Most people who ask whether they are real are surprised to learn not only that they exist, but that they are among the most scientifically interesting and commercially extraordinary stones in existence. Understanding what makes them real, what makes them rare, and what your options are in New Zealand as a buyer is the purpose of this guide.
Yes, Natural Pink Diamonds Are Real
Natural pink diamonds are not dyed, treated with colour, or in any way altered. They are genuine diamonds whose pink colour is inherent to their crystal structure. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the world's most authoritative gemological laboratory, grades natural pink diamonds in the same way as all other fancy colour diamonds: as Faint Pink, Very Light Pink, Light Pink, Fancy Light Pink, Fancy Pink, Fancy Intense Pink, Fancy Deep Pink, or Fancy Vivid Pink, with Fancy Vivid Pink representing the most saturated and the most valuable.
A GIA-certified natural Fancy Vivid Pink diamond is an authenticated natural gemstone with no parallel in the laboratory-grown market in terms of provenance and rarity. These stones have sold at Christie's and Sotheby's auctions for prices exceeding NZD $2 million per carat.
What Causes Pink Diamonds to Be Pink?
The colour origin of pink diamonds is one of the most studied questions in gemology, and the answer is still not completely settled at the quantum level. The consensus is that the pink colour results from plastic deformation of the diamond crystal, caused by immense lateral pressure as the diamond was transported from deep within the Earth to the surface through kimberlite pipes.
This deformation creates microscopic distortions in the crystal lattice that absorb green light from the visible spectrum. The remaining transmitted light registers as pink to the human eye. This is a fundamentally different mechanism from:
Yellow diamonds: colour caused by nitrogen impurities trapped in the crystal.
Blue diamonds: colour caused by boron impurities (the famous Hope Diamond is blue for this reason).
Green diamonds: colour caused by natural radiation exposure near the surface.
Red diamonds: the same mechanism as pink diamonds, but at a more extreme degree of lattice distortion.
Pink and red diamonds are the only major fancy colour diamond categories where the colour comes from a physical change to the crystal itself rather than a chemical impurity. This is one reason they are so rare: the specific combination of pressure, temperature, and geological timing required to produce this effect is extraordinarily uncommon.
The Argyle Mine: The Source That Defined Pink Diamonds
The Argyle diamond mine in the East Kimberley region of Western Australia was operated by Rio Tinto from 1983 until its closure in November 2020. During those 37 years, Argyle supplied an estimated 90 percent or more of the world's natural pink diamonds, along with the majority of global champagne and cognac diamond supply.
Argyle pink diamonds were distinctive not only in their volume but in their character: typically small in carat weight (most were under 0.50 carats), with intense purplish-pink to vivid pink colours that made them visually striking despite their size. Rio Tinto sold the finest Argyle pinks through an annual invitation-only tender process attended by the world's leading diamond dealers and collectors.
Since Argyle's closure, no other mine has emerged to fill the supply gap. Other sources including South Africa, Russia, Brazil, and Canada produce occasional pink diamonds, but in quantities far below what Argyle once supplied. The practical result for the market is that natural pink diamond prices have risen substantially since 2020 and are expected to continue rising as existing supply is absorbed by collectors and institutions.
Natural vs Lab-Created Pink Diamonds: What New Zealand Buyers Need to Know
The closure of Argyle and the rise of lab-grown diamond technology have together created two very different markets for pink diamonds in New Zealand.
Feature
Natural pink diamond
Lab-created pink diamond
Origin
Earth, billions of years
Laboratory, weeks to months
Hardness
10 (Mohs)
10 (Mohs)
Colour grade
GIA Fancy scale
GIA or IGI Fancy scale
Price (0.50 ct, Fancy Pink)
NZD $40,000 to $150,000+
NZD $1,500 to $4,000
Rarity
Extremely rare
Commercially available
Investment value
Strong, especially post-Argyle
Not applicable
Best for
Collectors, investors, heirlooms
Engagement rings, daily wear
For most New Zealand buyers who want a pink diamond ring for wearing, whether as an engagement ring, a dress ring, or a special gift, a lab-created pink diamond offers the same beauty, the same hardness, and the same grading standard at a price that is accessible rather than extraordinary.
Pink Diamond Rings at TJ Diamond Auckland
TJ Diamond designs and manufactures pink diamond rings in Auckland, working with both natural and lab-created pink diamonds. For lab-created pink diamond rings, we offer a range of colour intensities from Fancy Light Pink through Fancy Vivid Pink, in a variety of shapes including oval, round, cushion, and pear. Settings range from classic solitaires to halo designs and custom configurations.
Oval settings are among the most popular for pink diamond centre stones. Browse our oval diamond rings collection for oval setting styles that translate directly to pink diamond rings.
For a halo setting around a pink diamond, see our halo diamond rings collection as a design reference.
Round brilliant is also a classic choice for pink diamonds. See our round diamond rings collection for round setting options.
For natural Argyle pink diamonds or certified natural pink diamonds from other origins, TJ Diamond can source and set stones on a bespoke basis. These commissions are handled directly by our Auckland team and require a personal consultation.
Pink diamonds make a profoundly personal choice for an engagement ring, an anniversary ring, or a significant self-purchase. If you want something that is genuinely distinctive and carries a colour story that no other gemstone can match, a pink diamond ring is in a category of its own.
For comparison with other coloured gemstone ring options, see our article on how much is a ruby ring worth, which covers the ruby as the other leading coloured gemstone for fine rings.
To discuss a pink diamond ring, arrange a consultation, or request a quote for a natural or lab-created pink diamond, contact our Auckland team.
Related: Oval diamond rings NZ | Halo diamond rings NZ | How much is a ruby ring worth?
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Quick answer: A ruby ring in New Zealand is worth anywhere from NZD $800 for a lab-created ruby in a simple 18ct gold setting, to NZD $20,000 or more for a fine natural ruby ring with certificate. The value depends primarily on the colour, size, origin, and treatment status of the ruby, and secondarily on the metal and craftsmanship of the setting. Lab-created rubies offer excellent colour at a fraction of natural ruby prices.
Rubies are among the most prized coloured gemstones in the world, and their value varies more dramatically than almost any other stone. A beautiful ruby ring can be purchased for under NZD $2,000 or it can command over NZD $100,000 at auction. Understanding what drives that range helps you make an informed decision when buying a ruby ring in Auckland or anywhere in New Zealand.
What Determines a Ruby Ring's Value?
Colour: The Most Important Factor
Colour accounts for the largest share of a ruby's value, far more so than in diamonds, where cut tends to dominate. The most prized ruby colour is a deep, saturated red sometimes described in the gem trade as "pigeon blood red," a vivid crimson with no significant orange or pink secondary hue. Rubies with this intensity and purity of colour command premiums that can be many times the price of a ruby of the same size with a duller, pinker, or more brownish red.
In practical terms for NZ buyers, a ruby with strong, vivid red colour and good saturation is significantly more valuable than a similar-sized ruby with a paler pink-red or an orange-red tone. When comparing ruby rings, always look at the colour in natural daylight as well as artificial light, since some rubies shift noticeably between light sources.
Carat Weight and the Price-Per-Carat Multiplier
Ruby prices per carat increase steeply with size because large rubies are substantially rarer than small ones. A ruby of 2 carats in top colour is not twice the price of a 1 carat ruby of the same colour, it may be four to eight times the price per carat. This exponential pricing makes carat weight one of the most significant factors in a ruby ring's total value once you are above 1 carat.
For rings, rubies between 0.50 and 1.50 carats are the most commonly purchased size range in New Zealand, balancing good visual presence with more accessible pricing.
Origin and Certification
Where a ruby was mined matters commercially. Burmese rubies (from Myanmar, specifically the Mogok valley) and certain Mozambican rubies from the Montepuez deposit carry origin premiums in the international market. A GIA or Gübelin certificate confirming Burmese origin adds measurable value to a ruby in New Zealand as it would globally, because Burmese rubies are historically associated with the finest colour.
Origin can only be confirmed by a recognised gemological laboratory. A seller claiming Burmese origin without a laboratory certificate should be treated with caution.
Heat Treatment and Fracture Filling
The vast majority of rubies on the market, estimated at over 95 percent of all commercial rubies, have been heat-treated to improve their colour and clarity. Heat treatment is widely accepted in the gem trade and does not dramatically reduce a ruby's value compared to an untreated stone of the same appearance, but untreated rubies do carry a premium over treated ones.
Fracture filling, where a glass or resin is used to fill surface-reaching inclusions to improve clarity, is a more significant treatment that substantially reduces value. Lead-glass-filled rubies are sold widely in fashion jewellery markets but are worth a fraction of the price of comparable untreated or heat-treated natural rubies. A reputable gemological certificate from GIA will disclose all treatments.
When buying a ruby ring in New Zealand, always ask whether the ruby has been treated, and for significant purchases, request a laboratory certificate that discloses the treatment status. An untreated certificate ruby is worth substantially more than a treated one of equivalent appearance.
Ruby Ring Price Guide for New Zealand
Ruby type
Typical size range
Price guide (NZD)
Lab-created ruby, 18ct gold
0.50 to 3.00 ct
$800 to $2,500
Natural ruby, commercial grade
0.25 to 0.75 ct
$1,500 to $4,000
Natural ruby, fine colour
0.50 to 1.50 ct
$4,000 to $12,000
Natural ruby, certified origin
1.00 to 2.00 ct
$10,000 to $30,000
Burmese/Mozambique, cert. untreated
2.00 ct+
$30,000 to $100,000+
Note: prices are indicative ranges for a finished ring including an 18ct gold setting from TJ Diamond. Ruby prices fluctuate with the international market. All prices are in New Zealand dollars including GST.
Natural Ruby vs Lab-Created Ruby: Which Should You Buy?
Lab-created rubies are chemically and optically identical to natural rubies. They display the same colour, hardness (9 on the Mohs scale), and brilliance. The difference is provenance and rarity. A lab-created ruby allows you to have a large, vivid red stone in a fine 18ct gold setting at a price that would be impossible for a natural ruby of equivalent visual quality.
For buyers who prioritise appearance, wearability, and value, a lab-created ruby ring is an excellent choice. For buyers who value rarity, natural origin, and the long-term store of value associated with fine natural gemstones, a natural ruby with certification is the appropriate direction.
Ruby as an Engagement Ring: Is It a Good Choice?
Ruby is the second hardest gemstone after diamond, scoring 9 on the Mohs scale. This makes ruby durable enough for daily wear as an engagement ring with appropriate care. Ruby engagement rings have grown in popularity in New Zealand as couples seek distinctive alternatives to the conventional diamond solitaire.
The symbolism of ruby, associated with passion, vitality, and love across many cultures, translates particularly well to engagement ring use. A ruby solitaire or ruby halo ring in 18ct rose gold or yellow gold makes a striking engagement ring with a personality of its own.
For those considering a halo setting for a ruby centre stone, see our halo diamond rings collection for design inspiration that translates directly to ruby halo rings.
For a three stone ruby ring option with diamond side stones, browse our three stone diamond rings collection as a design reference.
Ruby rings also make excellent alternative gemstone promise rings. See our guide on what is a promise ring for more on using gemstone rings for this purpose.
Ruby Rings at TJ Diamond Auckland
TJ Diamond designs and manufactures ruby rings in Auckland, including ruby engagement rings, ruby dress rings, and custom ruby jewellery in 18ct gold and platinum. We source both natural and lab-created rubies and provide full disclosure of treatment status. For natural ruby rings, we can arrange gemological certification where required.
Because TJ Diamond manufactures directly in Auckland, we eliminate the wholesale and retail markup layers common in commercial jewellery stores, which means a higher-quality ruby and setting for the same budget compared to most Auckland high street alternatives.
Browse our oval diamond rings collection for oval setting styles that work equally well with oval ruby centre stones.
To discuss a ruby ring, arrange a consultation, or request a quote for a custom ruby ring design, contact our Auckland team.
Related: What is a promise ring? | Halo diamond rings NZ | Three stone diamond rings NZ
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1: How much is a ruby ring worth in New Zealand?
A ruby ring's value in New Zealand depends on the size, colour, clarity, and origin of the ruby, the type of metal setting, and whether the ruby is natural or lab-created. As a broad guide: a lab-created ruby ring in 18ct gold starts from around NZD $800 to $1,500. A natural ruby ring in 18ct gold with a small ruby (under 0.50 carat) typically ranges from NZD $1,500 to $4,000. A natural ruby ring with a 1 carat or larger ruby in a high-quality colour and clarity can range from NZD $5,000 to $20,000 or more. Fine Burmese or Mozambican rubies with certificate from a recognised gemological laboratory (GIA, Gübelin) at 2 carats or above can reach NZD $50,000 and beyond. The colour, specifically the depth and saturation of the red, is the single biggest driver of value.
Q2: What makes a ruby ring more or less valuable?
Ruby value is determined by colour, clarity, carat weight, cut, and origin. Colour is the most important factor: the most valuable rubies are a deep, vivid red sometimes described as "pigeon blood red," with no orange or pink secondary hue. Clarity matters but rubies are a Type II gemstone, meaning visible inclusions are accepted in the trade as long as they do not significantly affect transparency or beauty. Carat weight multiplies value steeply: a 2 carat ruby is worth far more than twice the price of a 1 carat ruby of the same colour and clarity, because large rubies are rare. Origin can also add significant value: Burmese rubies and certain Mozambican rubies carry a premium, and a recognised origin certificate from GIA or Gübelin adds to the price. Heat treatment reduces value compared to untreated rubies, and fracture-filling reduces value significantly. A lead-glass-filled ruby is worth a fraction of the price of a comparable untreated stone.
Q3: How much does a 1 carat ruby ring cost in NZ?
A 1 carat natural ruby ring in New Zealand typically costs between NZD $3,500 and $12,000, depending on the ruby's colour grade, clarity, origin, heat treatment status, and the metal and design of the setting. A 1 carat ruby in a bright vivid red (sometimes called "pigeon blood") with good clarity, from a reputable origin, and set in 18ct gold, represents a significant gemstone purchase. At the lower end of that range, the ruby may show some visible inclusions or a slightly less saturated colour. At the upper end, the colour is strong, the clarity acceptable for the type, and the stone may come with a gemological certificate. A 1 carat lab-created ruby in a comparable setting will cost considerably less, typically NZD $1,200 to $2,500.
Q4: Are rubies more expensive than diamonds?
At the top end of the market, fine rubies are substantially more expensive per carat than fine diamonds. A top-quality natural ruby of 2 to 3 carats with Burmese origin certification and no heat treatment can command prices far exceeding an equivalent weight in diamond. However, in the more common quality ranges available in New Zealand jewellery stores, commercial-grade rubies are typically less expensive than equivalent-grade diamonds of the same carat weight. The comparison depends heavily on quality. Lab-created rubies are affordable at all sizes and are significantly less expensive than comparable natural rubies or natural diamonds. The key difference is that the top of the ruby market is extremely rarefied, and high-quality large natural rubies are rarer than high-quality large diamonds.
Q5: What is the difference between a natural ruby and a lab-created ruby ring?
A natural ruby is formed in the earth over millions of years and mined from deposits in Myanmar, Mozambique, Thailand, Madagascar, and other locations. A lab-created ruby is chemically, physically, and optically identical to a natural ruby but grown in a controlled laboratory environment in weeks rather than millions of years. The key differences are price, rarity, and provenance. A lab-created ruby can be purchased at a fraction of the cost of a natural ruby of the same size, colour, and clarity, making large, vivid rubies accessible at prices far below what a natural stone of equivalent appearance would cost. A natural ruby carries rarity value and provenance that a lab-created ruby does not. For everyday wear, gifting, and fashion jewellery, lab-created rubies offer excellent value. For investment, heirloom, or collector purposes, natural rubies retain a value that lab stones do not.
Q6: Is a ruby ring a good choice for an engagement ring?
Yes, ruby engagement rings are a beautiful and increasingly popular alternative to diamond engagement rings in New Zealand. Rubies score 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, making them the second hardest gemstone after diamond (which scores 10). This hardness makes rubies durable enough for everyday wear as an engagement ring, though they require the same care as any fine gemstone ring. The vivid red of a ruby is associated with love, passion, and vitality across many cultures, which makes the symbolism well-suited to an engagement ring. Ruby engagement rings also tend to be more distinctive than diamond solitaires, which appeals to buyers who want something personally meaningful rather than conventional. TJ Diamond designs ruby engagement rings in a range of styles, from classic solitaires to halo settings, in 18ct rose gold, yellow gold, white gold, and platinum.
Q7: How can I tell if a ruby ring is real or fake?
The most reliable way to confirm a ruby is genuine is to have it assessed by a qualified gemologist or tested by a gemological laboratory such as GIA. At home, there are some indicators but no definitive tests. A real ruby will not scratch glass easily (rubies are harder than glass), and a genuine ruby in a quality setting will typically feel cool to the touch before warming from body heat. Synthetic rubies (lab-created) are chemically real rubies, just grown in a laboratory rather than mined, so "fake" usually refers to glass or synthetic spinel sold as ruby. Doublets (a thin layer of ruby cemented to a base of glass or another material) can look convincing under casual inspection. Very low prices, very uniform colour with no inclusions, and settings of unknown base metal are all indicators to investigate further. A gemological certificate from GIA, AGL, or Gübelin provides authoritative confirmation of a ruby's identity, origin, and treatment status.
Q8: Does TJ Diamond sell ruby rings in Auckland?
Yes. TJ Diamond designs and manufactures ruby rings in Auckland, including ruby engagement rings, ruby dress rings, and ruby rings set in 18ct yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum. TJ Diamond sources rubies in both natural and lab-created options and can design custom ruby rings to specification, including choosing the ruby shape (oval, cushion, round, pear, emerald cut), setting style (solitaire, halo, three stone), and band design. As a direct manufacturer rather than a retail store, TJ Diamond offers custom ruby rings at prices that reflect manufacturing cost rather than retail markup. Consultations are available at the Auckland studio and can be arranged through the TJ Diamond website.