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A ring that does not fit is one of the most common situations in fine jewellery. A proposal ring sized from a best guess. A wedding band ordered months before the ceremony when weight or temperature had changed. An inherited ring from a family member with different fingers. A ring worn for decades as a finger naturally changes shape. In all these cases, the question is the same: can this ring be resized, and if so, by how much and with what outcome? The answer depends on three things: the design of the ring, the metal it is made from, and how many sizes need to change. This article covers all three, including the specific ring types that cannot be resized at all. How Ring Resizing Works Sizing down — making a ring smaller To make a ring smaller, the jeweller marks the amount to be removed, cuts a small section out of the band at the back of the ring, and re-joins the two cut ends using solder or laser welding. The join is then filed, sanded, and polished until it is invisible in the finished ring. Done correctly by an experienced jeweller, a size reduction is not detectable in the finished ring. Sizing up — making a ring larger To make a ring larger, the jeweller has two options. For very small increases (half a size to one full size in yellow or rose gold), stretching the band over a mandrel is sometimes possible, gradually increasing the diameter while maintaining the band's uniform thickness. For larger increases, or for any platinum ring, the jeweller cuts the band at the back, inserts a small piece of additional metal in the same alloy, and re-joins and polishes the seam to invisibility. Metal insertion produces a more structurally sound and consistent result than stretching, and is the recommended approach for all but the smallest adjustments. How Many Sizes Can a Ring Be Safely Resized? The practical safe range for most ring resizing is one to two sizes in either direction. Within this range, the metal can be adjusted without significantly affecting the band's proportions, prong alignment, or roundness. Beyond two sizes, the structural requirements of the adjustment increase substantially. Size change Typical outcome Notes Half to one size Clean result, seamless join, fully invisible Most common and safest resize range One to two sizes Clean result with skilled jeweller, may require stone checking Recommended range for most rings Two to three sizes Possible for plain bands in good condition, more complex Prong and setting inspection essential after resize More than three sizes New ring often preferable to repeated metal stress Discuss options with jeweller before proceeding Which Rings Can and Cannot Be Resized Plain gold or platinum solitaire: Can be resized. The simplest resize. No stones near the resize area. Most straightforward outcome. Four-prong or six-prong solitaire with plain band: Can be resized. The prong setting is at the front of the ring, away from the resize area at the back. Standard resize process with prong inspection after completion. Pavé band (half pavé): Can usually be resized if the stones are set on the top half of the band only, leaving a plain metal section at the back for the resize. Complex and requires a jeweller experienced with pavé maintenance after adjustment. Half eternity ring: Can usually be resized. Stones are set on approximately half the band circumference, leaving a plain section at the back. The plain section is used for the resize adjustment. Full eternity ring: Cannot be resized. Stones run continuously around the entire band. There is no plain section to cut into for a size reduction or add metal to for a size increase without disrupting the stone setting. Accurate sizing before ordering is essential for full eternity rings. Full pavé band: Cannot be resized. Same principle as full eternity: stones cover the entire band with no plain section available for adjustment without disturbing the setting. Channel-set band (full circumference): Cannot be conventionally resized. Stones are held between two metal channels running the full circumference. Resizing would require removing and resetting all stones. Tension setting: Cannot be resized. The tension setting holds the diamond by compressing the band. Any change in band diameter changes the tension and compromises stone security. The most important ring resizing rule in the NZ market: if you are considering a full eternity ring or a full pavé band, measure your ring size precisely before ordering. These rings cannot be adjusted after the fact. A half eternity ring is always the safer choice if there is any uncertainty about sizing. For more on eternity rings and the specific sizing considerations for full vs half eternity designs, see our article what is an eternity ring? which covers this in detail. Resizing Gold vs Platinum Rings Gold rings Yellow gold and rose gold rings are the most straightforward to resize. The metal is malleable, responds well to both stretching and metal insertion, and solders cleanly. Most NZ jewellers with standard goldsmithing skills can resize a plain yellow or rose gold ring correctly. White gold rings are also gold at their core (alloyed with palladium or nickel) and resize in the same way, but may require rhodium re-plating after the resize to restore a consistent white surface across the band. Platinum rings Platinum resizing requires specialist skills and equipment. Platinum has a significantly higher melting point than gold and behaves differently during the soldering and finishing process. A platinum resize performed by a jeweller unfamiliar with the metal can result in visible porosity at the join, surface discolouration, or a seam that polishes out differently from the surrounding metal. A qualified platinum jeweller achieves a seamless, invisible result. Platinum also work-hardens with each adjustment, meaning it becomes progressively more difficult to work with the more times it is resized. This makes it important to establish the correct size as accurately as possible before the first resize, and to avoid unnecessary adjustments. TJ Diamond's Lifetime Warranty and Resizing Policy TJ Diamond's lifetime warranty covers ring resizing for the life of every ring we make in our Auckland studio. If your ring no longer fits due to natural finger size change over time, pregnancy, or any other reason, we resize it at no charge. The warranty also covers prong inspection and stone checking after any resize, since prong alignment can be affected by the adjustment process. Full details of what TJ Diamond's lifetime warranty covers are documented. If you are purchasing a ring and are unsure of your size, TJ Diamond recommends visiting our Auckland studio for a calibrated metal sizing measurement before ordering. Browse our engagement ring collection or our  wedding bands collection to see the full range of ring styles and their resizability considerations. For any question about resizing a specific TJ Diamond ring, contact our Auckland team and we will advise on the process, timeline, and any specific considerations for your ring design. Frequently Asked Questions Q1: Can an engagement ring be resized? Most engagement rings can be resized, but the ease and outcome depend on the ring's design, the metal, and how many sizes need to be changed. A plain gold or platinum solitaire band can typically be resized up or down by one to three sizes without affecting the ring's integrity or appearance. Rings with diamonds or gemstones set around the band (full eternity, pavé, or channel-set bands) are more complex to resize and may require additional stone work to maintain secure settings after adjustment. Full eternity rings, where diamonds run continuously around the entire band, cannot be conventionally resized at all. TJ Diamond's lifetime warranty covers ring resizing for the life of every ring we make. Q2: How many sizes can a ring be resized? For a plain gold or platinum band, most jewellers can resize up to two to three sizes up or down without significantly affecting the ring's structural integrity. Beyond two to three sizes, the metal must be significantly stretched or compressed, which can affect the band's proportions, the prong alignment, and the overall roundness of the ring. For very large size changes, making a new ring entirely is often a better outcome than repeatedly stretching or compressing an existing one. The practical safe range for most ring resizing is one to two sizes in either direction, with three sizes possible for plain bands in good condition. Q3: What types of rings cannot be resized? Full eternity rings — where diamonds or gemstones are set continuously around the entire circumference of the band — cannot be conventionally resized. There is no plain metal section available to cut into for a size reduction, or to add metal to for a size increase, without disrupting the stone setting. For full eternity rings, accurate sizing before ordering is essential. Half eternity rings, where stones are set on approximately half the band with a plain section on the back, can typically be resized by working with the plain section. Rings with complex structural elements, very thin bands, or settings that run to the extreme edge of the band may also be difficult or impossible to resize without compromise. Q4: Does resizing a ring damage it? A correctly performed ring resize by a skilled jeweller should not visibly damage the ring. For sizing down, the jeweller removes a small section of the band and re-joins the ends. For sizing up, the jeweller stretches the band or inserts a small piece of additional metal and re-joins it seamlessly. The join should be invisible in the finished ring, and the metal surface should be re-polished to match. The most common risk in resizing is in rings with stone settings close to the resize area: if a prong or setting is near the join, it may require re-tightening after the resize. TJ Diamond's lifetime warranty covers all resizing work on rings we have made, including any stone checking and prong maintenance after the resize. Q5: How long does ring resizing take in NZ? Most ring resizes at a professional jewellery studio in NZ take between 3 and 7 working days for a standard plain band resize. More complex resizes, including rings with stone settings that need maintenance after the resize, or rings requiring significant structural adjustment, may take 1 to 2 weeks. Urgent resizes can sometimes be accommodated faster, but rushing a resize increases the risk of visible seam lines or inadequate stone checking after the adjustment. For TJ Diamond rings, resizing is covered under the lifetime warranty and is carried out in our Auckland studio. Contact us to discuss the timeline for your specific ring. Q6: Can a platinum ring be resized? Yes, but platinum resizing requires specialist skills because platinum behaves differently from gold during the resize process. Platinum is denser and has a higher melting point than gold, which means it requires more force to work and more precise temperature control when re-joining the band. A platinum resize performed by a jeweller inexperienced with platinum can result in porosity in the join, visible seam lines, or surface discolouration. An experienced platinum jeweller achieves a seamless result. TJ Diamond's Auckland studio works with platinum regularly and all platinum ring resizing is carried out by our experienced team. Platinum's work-hardening property means resizing becomes harder the more times a platinum ring is adjusted, so it is important to establish the correct size as accurately as possible before the first resize. Q7: How do I know what ring size to order when buying a new ring? The most accurate method is to be measured in person at a jewellery studio using calibrated metal sizing rings, which account for band width (wider bands require a slightly larger size than narrower bands at the same finger). Online plastic sizer kits are a reasonable approximation for narrower bands but are less accurate for wider bands. If ordering as a surprise gift, common approaches include: borrowing a ring the recipient already wears on the correct finger and tracing the inner circle, asking a trusted family member who may know, or using the average NZ women's ring size (N, approximately US 6.75) as a starting point. TJ Diamond includes a complimentary resize within the first 12 months for any ring we make, so a slightly incorrect size on delivery is not a significant problem for most ring styles. Q8: Does TJ Diamond resize rings made by other jewellers? TJ Diamond's resizing service is primarily for rings handcrafted in our Auckland studio and covered under our lifetime warranty. For rings made elsewhere, we recommend consulting the original jeweller first, as they will have the most knowledge of the specific ring's construction, metal composition, and setting details. If the original jeweller is unavailable, a qualified Auckland jeweller can assess whether resizing is appropriate for your specific ring. Contact TJ Diamond to discuss whether we can assist with your specific ring. Q9: What is the difference between resizing up and resizing down? Resizing down (making a ring smaller) involves removing a small section of the band and re-joining the ends. This is generally the more straightforward of the two adjustments, as it reduces the band without adding new material. Resizing up (making a ring larger) involves either stretching the band uniformly around a mandrel, or cutting the band and inserting a small piece of additional metal. For small increases (half a size to one full size), stretching is sometimes possible for gold rings. For larger increases, metal insertion provides a more structurally sound and consistent result. Platinum rings are almost always resized by metal insertion rather than stretching, due to platinum's resistance to stretching. Both methods, done correctly, should be invisible in the finished ring.  

The toi et moi ring is one of the most significant engagement ring trends of the 2020s, but it is far from a new idea. The style has a history that stretches back to 18th-century France, a provenance that makes it one of the most historically meaningful engagement ring forms available, and a contemporary revival that reflects the most important shift in what NZ buyers want from an engagement ring: personal symbolism over conventional sparkle. The History of the Toi et Moi Ring The most famous toi et moi ring in history was given by Napoleon Bonaparte to Joséphine de Beauharnais on the occasion of their engagement in 1796. The ring featured two teardrop-shaped stones: a pear-cut sapphire and a pear-cut diamond, set side by side on a simple gold band so both stones faced the wearer simultaneously. The two stones were understood to represent the two people in the relationship — you and me, toi et moi — permanently united on a single band. The Napoleon and Joséphine ring sold at auction in Paris in 2013 for approximately 949,000 euros, far exceeding its pre-sale estimate, confirming both its historical significance and its continued resonance as a symbol of romantic intent. The original ring is now in a private collection. Napoleon Bonaparte proposed to Joséphine with a two-stone ring in 1796, more than 100 years before the modern diamond solitaire became the dominant engagement ring style. The toi et moi is not a trend. It is a return to one of the oldest and most explicitly romantic ring designs in the history of fine jewellery. The toi et moi style was widely adopted during the Victorian and Edwardian eras, when two-stone rings set with complementary or contrasting gemstones were a popular expression of romantic intent. The style fell out of mainstream fashion in the mid-20th century as the round solitaire became dominant, and experienced a significant revival beginning around 2022. Why the Toi et Moi Returned in 2022 The contemporary toi et moi revival was driven primarily by high-profile celebrity engagements that featured two-stone rings. Several prominent figures chose toi et moi designs in 2021 and 2022, and the resulting media coverage drove a significant increase in search volume and consumer interest for the style globally and in New Zealand. Beyond the celebrity influence, the toi et moi revival reflects a broader shift in what engagement ring buyers in NZ want from their rings. The two-stone design offers something the conventional solitaire cannot: a ring that is visually and symbolically specific to two people, where the choice of each stone and the relationship between the two stones communicates something about the relationship itself. For couples who shop for the ring together — which a growing proportion of NZ buyers do — the toi et moi allows both people's aesthetic preferences to be represented in a single ring. The Most Popular Toi et Moi Combinations The toi et moi's defining characteristic is that both stones face the wearer simultaneously, so their visual relationship — the contrast or complement between them — is always visible. The most popular combinations in the current NZ market reflect different approaches to that relationship. Stone combination Visual relationship Character Oval and pear diamond Two elongated shapes flowing together, tips facing away The most popular combination. Sweeping, directional, contemporary. Round and oval diamond Circular vs elongated — contrast in outline, harmony in sparkle Classic meets contemporary. Balanced and versatile. Oval diamond and sapphire Diamond brilliance alongside deep colour A nod to the original Napoleon and Joséphine tradition. Deeply personal. Pear and marquise diamond Two pointed shapes, tips facing toward each other Bold, directional, architectural. Suits longer fingers particularly well. Two ovals, different sizes Same shape, different scale, tilted toward each other Cohesive and intimate. The size difference implies movement and connection. Diamond and coloured gemstone Brilliance alongside colour — endless personal options The most personally specific option. Birthstone, favourite colour, meaning. How to Wear a Toi et Moi Ring A toi et moi ring is most commonly worn as an engagement ring on the ring finger of the left hand. The two stones typically sit side by side across the width of the finger rather than stacked vertically, giving the ring a horizontal orientation that reads differently from a conventional single-stone ring. Wide fingers: The horizontal two-stone orientation suits wide fingers particularly well, drawing the eye across the finger and creating width rather than length. Narrower fingers: Choose two elongated shapes pointing in the same direction (oval and pear with both tips toward the nails, or two ovals tilted inward toward each other). The directional composition elongates the visual line of the finger. Wedding band pairing: A plain slim band in the same metal typically sits most comfortably alongside a toi et moi ring, as the two-stone profile can be complex to fit a contoured band against. A plain band on each side of the toi et moi also creates a striking stacked composition. Toi et Moi vs Three-Stone Ring The toi et moi and the three-stone ring are both multi-stone engagement ring styles, but they represent different design philosophies. Toi et moi (two stones): Two stones of similar or complementary visual weight, set as equals. No hierarchy. The symbolic meaning is two people of equal significance, represented side by side. The viewer's eye moves between the two stones. Three-stone ring: One dominant centre stone flanked by two smaller side stones. Clear hierarchy. The traditional symbolic meaning is past, present, and future. The viewer's eye is directed to the centre stone first, with the side stones as supporting elements. For the three-stone style, see our three-stone engagement rings collection. Designing a Toi et Moi Ring at TJ Diamond TJ Diamond creates bespoke toi et moi rings to order in our Auckland studio. The design process begins with choosing the two stone types, shapes, and carat weights, then selecting the setting style and band design that places both stones in the correct relationship to each other on the hand. The most common starting point for NZ toi et moi buyers is the oval and pear combination. See our  oval diamond rings and   pear engagement rings for stone shape references. Browse our full  engagement ring collection to see single-stone styles that can inform the aesthetic direction for a bespoke two-stone design. Both natural and lab-grown diamonds are available for either or both stones in a toi et moi. Pairing a natural diamond with a lab-grown diamond of complementary shape is an increasingly popular choice — the two stones are visually indistinguishable in the finished ring, and the saving on the lab-grown stone can be redirected to a larger natural stone or a more elaborate setting. TJ Diamond recommends beginning a toi et moi consultation at least 10-12 weeks before your intended proposal date, as sourcing two specific complementary stones takes additional time compared to a single-stone ring.  Contact our Auckland team to arrange a virtual consultation. We can show you the specific stones together before any commitment is made, so you see how the combination reads as a pair rather than assessing each stone individually from photographs. Frequently Asked Questions Q1: What is a toi et moi ring? A toi et moi ring is a two-stone ring featuring two different gemstones or diamonds set side by side on a single band. The name comes from the French phrase meaning "you and me," and the two stones are understood to represent two people in a relationship. The style is one of the oldest engagement ring forms in fine jewellery history — Napoleon Bonaparte gave Joséphine de Beauharnais a toi et moi ring in 1796, set with a pear-shaped sapphire and a pear-shaped diamond. Contemporary toi et moi rings most commonly feature two different diamond shapes, two different coloured gemstones, or a combination of a diamond and a coloured gemstone, set so both stones face the wearer simultaneously. Q2: Why are toi et moi rings so popular in 2025? The toi et moi ring experienced a major revival starting in 2022 when several high-profile celebrity engagements featured two-stone rings, including Ariana Grande and Emily Ratajkowski. This celebrity visibility combined with a broader shift in the engagement ring market toward more personalised, non-traditional designs drove significant search volume and purchase interest in the style. By 2025, the toi et moi has become the fourth most-searched engagement ring style in New Zealand and internationally, behind round solitaire, oval solitaire, and halo. The style particularly appeals to buyers who want a ring with symbolic meaning built directly into its design, buyers who prefer a distinctive aesthetic over conventional single-stone settings, and couples who choose the ring together and want both personalities represented in its stones. Q3: What are the most popular toi et moi stone combinations in NZ? The most requested toi et moi combinations at TJ Diamond for NZ buyers are: oval and pear diamonds in the same metal (the two elongated shapes create a flowing, complementary composition), round brilliant and oval in 18ct yellow gold (classic meets contemporary within one setting), oval diamond and oval sapphire (a nod to the original Napoleon and Joséphine ring tradition), pear and marquise (two pointed-end shapes creating a directional, sweeping composition), and two oval diamonds of different sizes tilted toward each other. All combinations are available in natural and lab-grown diamonds, with any coloured gemstone specified to custom order. Q4: Which hand and finger does a toi et moi ring go on? A toi et moi ring is most commonly worn on the ring finger of the left hand as an engagement ring, the same as a conventional single-stone ring. It can also be worn as a fashion ring on any finger. The two-stone design typically sits more horizontally across the finger than a single-stone ring, as the two stones are placed side by side along the band width rather than stacked vertically. This horizontal orientation suits wide fingers particularly well, as it draws the eye across the finger rather than elongating it. For buyers with narrower fingers who want elongation, a toi et moi with two elongated shapes (oval and pear, or two marquise stones) creates a directional composition that elongates the visual line of the finger. Q5: Is a toi et moi ring suitable as an engagement ring? Yes, absolutely. The toi et moi is one of the oldest engagement ring forms in fine jewellery history, worn as a betrothal ring since at least the 18th century. Napoleon Bonaparte gave Joséphine a toi et moi ring as an engagement gift in 1796. The two-stone design carries a symbolic meaning — two people represented in a single ring — that is arguably more personally expressive than a conventional single-stone solitaire. In the current NZ market, the toi et moi is increasingly chosen by couples who shop for the ring together and want the design to reflect both personalities, by buyers who prefer a distinctive aesthetic, and by those who want a historically rooted style that is simultaneously contemporary in its revival. Q6: Can I customise the stones in a toi et moi ring at TJ Diamond? Yes. TJ Diamond creates bespoke toi et moi rings to order in our Auckland studio. You can specify any combination of diamond shapes, coloured gemstones, carat weights, and quality grades for each stone. Common custom requests include: a diamond and a sapphire matching a birthstone or significant colour, two diamonds in complementary shapes at different carat weights, a natural diamond paired with a lab-grown diamond of the same shape, or a toi et moi with specific engraving on the band between the two stones. TJ Diamond recommends beginning a bespoke toi et moi consultation at least 10-12 weeks before your intended proposal date, as sourcing two specific complementary stones takes additional time compared to a single-stone ring. Q7: What is the difference between a toi et moi ring and a three-stone ring? A toi et moi ring features two stones set side by side, typically of similar or complementary sizes, with equal visual emphasis on both. A three-stone ring features a larger centre stone flanked by two smaller side stones, with the centre stone as the clear visual focus. The three-stone design traditionally represents the past, present, and future of a relationship. The toi et moi represents two specific people in the relationship — you and me — which is a different symbolic framework. Both are multi-stone ring styles, but the toi et moi has no hierarchy between the stones, while the three-stone setting is always anchored by its centre diamond. Q8: How much does a toi et moi engagement ring cost in NZ? Toi et moi rings at TJ Diamond start from $999 NZD for a two-stone design with smaller stones, with pricing scaling based on the carat weight, quality grades, and stone types chosen for both stones. Because a toi et moi ring requires sourcing and setting two specific stones rather than one, the total cost reflects both stone costs combined. Lab-grown diamonds are available for either or both stones at 50-70% below natural equivalents, making larger or higher-quality stone combinations significantly more accessible within a defined budget. Contact TJ Diamond for a personalised quote for any specific toi et moi stone combination and design.  

The Asscher cut is one of the most historically significant diamond cuts in the fine jewellery world. Created over 120 years ago, it became the defining diamond shape of the Art Deco period, favoured for the way its geometric precision and reflective depth suited the clean architectural aesthetics of the 1920s and 1930s. Today it is the choice of buyers who want an engagement ring that communicates sophistication, history, and architectural character rather than the sparkle maximisation of a modern brilliant cut. The History of the Asscher Cut The Asscher cut was created by Joseph Isaac Asscher of the I.J. Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam in 1902. The Asscher family were one of the most significant diamond cutting families in history: in 1907, Joseph Asscher was commissioned to cleave the Cullinan Diamond, the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found, which was eventually cut into stones that became part of the British Crown Jewels. The original 1902 Asscher cut has 58 facets, a distinctively high crown, a small table, and large deeply trimmed 45-degree corners that give the finished diamond an almost octagonal outline when viewed from above. These proportions were designed to maximise the hall-of-mirrors effect characteristic of step-cut diamonds, while the square outline distinguished it from the rectangular emerald cut that would come to define a later era of fine jewellery. The Asscher Diamond Company held a patent on the Asscher cut from its creation in 1902. The patent expired after World War II, during which the company's operations were devastated. In 2001, the Asscher family introduced the Royal Asscher cut — a modified design with 74 facets and enhanced light performance — as a trademarked revival of the family's original creation. Standard Asscher cuts produced by other cutters are based on the original 1902 design without the Royal Asscher modifications. What Makes the Asscher Cut Look Different The Asscher cut's visual character is defined by four specific properties that set it apart from every other common diamond shape. High crown and small table: The Asscher cut has a notably higher crown (the facets above the girdle) and a smaller table (the flat top facet) than most modern diamond cuts. This proportion concentrates the hall-of-mirrors effect in the stone's upper portion, producing more visible concentric rectangular reflections when viewed from directly above. Deeply trimmed corners: The four corners of the Asscher cut are trimmed at 45 degrees, producing a distinctively octagonal outline when the stone is viewed face-up. The corners are more deeply trimmed than those of the radiant cut and at a sharper angle than the emerald cut's smaller corner trims. This octagonal silhouette is the Asscher cut's most recognisable feature at a glance. Step-cut facets: Like the emerald cut, the Asscher uses long, flat rectangular step-cut facets arranged in parallel rows rather than the triangular and kite-shaped facets of brilliant cuts. These facets create reflective depth rather than sparkle, producing the characteristic hall-of-mirrors appearance. Hall-of-mirrors depth: When you look directly into the table of a well-cut Asscher diamond, you see a series of concentric rectangular frames receding inward, like looking into the centre of an infinite corridor of mirrors. This is the defining visual quality of the Asscher cut and what draws buyers who have seen it in person. Asscher Cut vs Emerald Cut — The Key Differences Factor Asscher cut Emerald cut Outline Square with deeply trimmed corners (octagonal) Rectangular with small trimmed corners L-W ratio 1.00 to 1.05 for true square 1.30 to 1.60 for classic rectangular Crown height High crown, concentrated hall-of-mirrors effect Lower crown, wider reflective surface Table size Small table, more dramatic depth effect Larger table, broader open window quality Facet count (original) 58 facets (Royal Asscher: 74 facets) Approximately 57 facets Visual character Compact, geometric depth, more concentrated Elongated, expansive reflective quality Finger effect Square, no elongation Rectangular, some finger-lengthening effect Best for Buyers who want a square Art Deco step-cut shape Buyers who want a rectangular step-cut shape Why Clarity Grade Is Critical for the Asscher Cut The Asscher cut's step-cut facets act as windows into the diamond's interior rather than as mirrors that conceal it. In a round brilliant, the complex facet pattern creates sparkle that effectively masks inclusions. In an Asscher cut, inclusions are significantly more visible at equivalent clarity grades because the open table allows an unobstructed view into the stone. VS2 clarity in an Asscher cut: May show inclusions visible to the naked eye through the open table. Not recommended as a clarity choice for buyers who want an inclusion-free appearance. VS1 clarity: The practical minimum for an Asscher cut that presents as inclusion-free to the naked eye in most lighting conditions. TJ Diamond's recommended minimum clarity grade for all Asscher cut diamonds. VVS2 and VVS1 clarity: The cleanest possible appearance through the Asscher's open table. The concentric hall-of-mirrors reflections are uninterrupted by any visible inclusions. The most technically impressive clarity presentation available in a step-cut diamond. This clarity requirement is the Asscher cut's primary quality consideration and the most important distinction between the Asscher and a brilliant-cut diamond of the same carat weight and price. Colour Grade and the Open Table The Asscher cut's large open table also allows colour to be seen more readily than in brilliant-cut diamonds. For a platinum or white gold setting, F or G colour is the recommended minimum. For an 18ct yellow gold or rose gold setting, H or I colour Asscher cuts appear as colourless as F or G colour stones in white metal, because the warm metal's colour is visible through the open table and absorbs the diamond's own warmth simultaneously. This warm metal colour strategy provides a meaningful budget advantage for Asscher cut buyers in yellow or rose gold. Ring Settings for Asscher Cut Diamonds in NZ Asscher cut engagement rings: solitaires, halo, and all engagement ring styles for the Asscher cut. The most classic Asscher setting is a four-prong solitaire placing prongs at the trimmed corners, allowing maximum light entry from all angles. Browse our full Asscher cut diamond rings range for anniversary, self-purchase, and fashion ring styles alongside engagement options. Bezel setting: a metal rim encircles the Asscher's perimeter, producing a clean Art Deco-influenced profile that suits the vintage character of the shape particularly well. Halo setting: a ring of round accent diamonds surrounding the square Asscher creates strong visual contrast between the geometric square outline and the circular halo, while amplifying the perceived centre stone size. For comparison with the related step-cut rectangular shape, see our emerald cut engagement rings collection. Asscher Cut Diamonds at TJ Diamond TJ Diamond handcrafts Asscher cut engagement rings in our Auckland studio in 18ct gold and platinum. Every Asscher cut diamond carries a GIA or IGI certificate. TJ Diamond assesses every Asscher cut individually for clarity presentation through the open table before selection — the same assessment applied to emerald cut diamonds, which share the step-cut clarity visibility challenge. Natural and lab-grown Asscher cut diamonds are both available. Lab-grown Asscher cuts carry GIA or IGI certification at the same quality grades as natural stones, at 50-70% lower prices. For buyers who want VS1 or VVS clarity, which the Asscher cut demands, lab-grown makes the highest clarity grades significantly more accessible within a defined NZ budget. Contact our Auckland team to arrange a virtual consultation. We show the specific Asscher cut diamond under multiple lighting conditions so the hall-of-mirrors effect and clarity character are visible before any purchase commitment. Frequently Asked Questions Q1: What is an Asscher cut diamond? An Asscher cut diamond is a square diamond with deeply trimmed corners and parallel step-cut facets arranged in rows on both the crown and pavilion. Created by Joseph Asscher in Amsterdam in 1902, the Asscher cut produces a distinctive hall-of-mirrors effect: concentric rectangular reflections visible through the open square table, creating a depth and architectural clarity that no brilliant-cut diamond replicates. The Asscher cut is the original square step-cut diamond, predating the emerald cut's rectangular step-cut design. Its high crown, small table, and deeply trimmed 45-degree corners give it a more dramatic visual character than any other step-cut shape. Q2: What is the difference between an Asscher cut and an emerald cut diamond? Both are step-cut diamonds with parallel rectangular facets, but they differ in outline, proportion, and visual character. The Asscher cut is square (length-to-width ratio as close to 1.00 as possible) with large, deeply trimmed 45-degree corners that create an almost octagonal outline. The emerald cut is rectangular with smaller trimmed corners. The Asscher's higher crown and smaller table produce a more concentrated, dramatic hall-of-mirrors effect in a compact square. The emerald cut's lower crown and larger table produce a wider, more expansive reflective quality. Both require VS1 clarity or better for an inclusion-free appearance, as the step-cut facets reveal inclusions more readily than brilliant-cut diamonds. Q3: Why does the Asscher cut require higher clarity than round brilliants? The Asscher cut's step-cut facets act as windows into the diamond's interior rather than mirrors that return light. A round brilliant's complex triangular facet pattern creates a sparkle effect that masks inclusions very effectively — a VS2 round brilliant almost never shows inclusions to the naked eye. An Asscher cut's flat, parallel facets offer no such concealment. Inclusions are significantly more visible at equivalent clarity grades in the open table of a step-cut diamond. VS1 clarity is the practical minimum for an Asscher cut that presents as inclusion-free to the naked eye. VVS2 or VVS1 delivers the clearest possible hall-of-mirrors depth with no visible interruptions. Q4: What is the difference between the original Asscher cut and the Royal Asscher cut? The original Asscher cut, created by Joseph Asscher in 1902, has 58 facets and a distinctive high crown with a small table. The Royal Asscher cut was developed in 2001 by the Asscher family to update the original design with enhanced light performance while preserving the vintage character. The Royal Asscher cut has 74 facets (compared to the original's 58), a slightly higher crown, and a modified facet arrangement that increases the brilliance and fire visible through the step-cut facets. The Royal Asscher cut is patented by the Asscher family. Standard modern Asscher cuts are based on the original 1902 design with various modifications that are not patented. Q5: What colour grade is recommended for an Asscher cut diamond in NZ? The Asscher cut's open table allows colour to be seen more readily than in brilliant-cut diamonds. For a platinum or white gold setting, F or G colour is the recommended minimum for a consistently colourless appearance. H colour in white metal may show a slight warmth visible in the open step facets under certain lighting. For an 18ct yellow gold or rose gold setting, H or I colour Asscher cuts appear as colourless as F or G colour stones in white metal, because the warm metal absorbs the diamond's own warmth through the open table. The colour grade advantage of warm metals is particularly significant in the Asscher cut, where the large facets allow both colour and setting metal to be seen directly through the stone. Q6: What is the ideal length-to-width ratio for an Asscher cut diamond? For an Asscher cut that reads as a true square, a length-to-width ratio of 1.00 to 1.05 is ideal. Ratios above 1.10 begin to read as rectangular, losing the characteristic square Asscher outline. The Asscher cut is distinguished from the emerald cut in part by its square proportions: buyers who want a rectangular step-cut shape should consider the emerald cut, while buyers who want a square step-cut should prioritise an Asscher ratio as close to 1.00 as possible. The large trimmed corners of the Asscher cut also compress the visual outline, making photographs slightly less accurate than in-person assessment for judging the final proportions on the hand. Q7: How much does an Asscher cut engagement ring cost in NZ? Asscher cut engagement rings at TJ Diamond start from $999 NZD. The Asscher cut is typically priced similarly to the emerald cut, reflecting the step-cut family's lower demand relative to brilliant cuts. This means Asscher cut diamonds are generally 15-25% less expensive per carat than round brilliants at equivalent quality grades. The clarity premium required for a step-cut diamond (VS1 or better) partially offsets this price advantage. Lab-grown Asscher cut diamonds are available at TJ Diamond with GIA or IGI certification at 50-70% below natural equivalents at the same quality grades, making the higher clarity grades the Asscher cut demands significantly more accessible within a defined NZ budget. Q8: What ring settings work best for Asscher cut diamonds? The Asscher cut's square outline and trimmed corners are compatible with a wider range of settings than diamonds with sharp corner points. A four-prong solitaire is the most classic setting, placing prongs at the four trimmed corners to allow maximum light entry. A bezel setting encircles the entire perimeter including the trimmed corners for maximum protection and a sleek, Art Deco-influenced profile. A halo of round accent diamonds creates strong visual contrast between the square Asscher outline and the circular halo, while amplifying the perceived size of the centre stone. Channel-set side stones with baguette or Asscher-cut side diamonds are a cohesive Art Deco composition that suits the vintage character of the shape.    

Ordering a custom piece of jewellery can feel mysterious if you’ve only ever bought from a display cabinet. What actually happens after you say, “Yes, let’s make it”? How does a sketch or an idea become a finished ring that you wear every day? At TJ Gold & Diamond (TJ Diamond), we’re not just a retailer – we’re a direct‑to‑consumer manufacturer. That means your piece is designed, crafted, and finished by our own team, in our own workshop. In this guide, we’ll walk you through our manufacturing process from A to Z, so you know exactly what you’re getting and why you can feel confident in your choice. Step 1: Your Vision and Consultation Every custom piece starts with a conversation. You might come to us with: A specific design in mind A handful of inspiration photos An existing piece you want to remodel Or just a feeling of what you like and don’t like Our team will discuss your style, budget, metal preferences, stone shapes and sizes, and any special details (engraving, hidden stones, profiles, etc.). This can happen in person or online, depending on what suits you best. The goal of this step:Turn your ideas into a clear, shared design direction. Step 2: Selecting Your Diamonds and Gemstones Next, we help you choose the right centre stone and any side stones to match your design. We’ll guide you through: The 4Cs: cut, colour, clarity, and carat The right stone size for your budget and finger size Different shapes (round, oval, pear, emerald cut, and more) Matching stones for halos, side stones, or bands Because we work directly with trusted suppliers and manufacture in‑house, we can balance value and beauty, and explain exactly what you’re paying for. Step 3: Design, CAD, and 3D Modelling Once your concept and stones are chosen, our designers translate that into a precise design. This typically includes: Detailed sketches and/or digital design CAD (Computer‑Aided Design) modelling to show the ring from multiple angles Exact measurements for stone settings, band width, and profile height You’ll be able to review and approve the design, and request adjustments before we move into production. This step ensures we capture every detail correctly before any metal is cast. Step 4: Creating the Model and Casting With your design finalised, we create a physical model. This may involve: 3D printing or wax modelling based on the CAD file Preparing the model for casting in your chosen metal (e.g. white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, platinum) Then, using professional casting techniques, we transform the molten metal into the rough form of your piece. This is where your jewellery starts to physically exist – but it’s still only the beginning. Step 5: Hand Crafting, Filing, and Assembly After casting, our jewellers: Cut away any excess metal from the casting process File and shape the piece to refine every curve and edge Assemble multi‑part designs (such as halos, multi‑stone settings, or fitted wedding bands) This is highly skilled work that blends precision and artistry. Small adjustments at this stage make a big difference to comfort, balance, and the final look. Step 6: Stone Setting Next, your diamonds or gemstones are carefully set by our professional setters. Depending on your design, this can include: Prong / claw settings Bezel settings Channel or pavé settings Halo and side stone arrangements Each stone is secured individually, with close attention to symmetry, alignment, and light performance. The aim is not just that the stones stay in place, but that they sparkle at their absolute best. Step 7: Polishing, Finishing, and Detailing Once the stones are set, your piece moves to finishing. Our finishing process can include: Multiple stages of polishing for a high, mirror‑like shine Brushed, matte, or other custom finishes if requested Cleaning to remove any polishing compounds Final detailing and a thorough inspection This is where your jewellery looks like what you imagined – only better. All the small marks from manufacturing are removed, and the metal and stones come to life. Step 8: Quality Control and Final Checks Before we hand your piece over, it passes through strict quality checks. We verify: Stone security and setting quality Metal finish and overall workmanship Sizing and fit according to your order Engraving and special details are correct Only when we’re completely satisfied does your piece leave the workshop. Step 9: Presentation, Certification, and Delivery We then prepare your piece for you: Professional presentation box Any relevant diamond or gemstone certificates Care instructions and cleaning recommendations Warranty or guarantee details Whether you collect in person or have your piece shipped, we ensure it’s safely packaged and fully documented. Why Working With a Direct Manufacturer Matters Because TJ Gold & Diamond is a direct‑to‑consumer manufacturer: You know exactly who is making your jewellery You get clearer timelines and communication about each stage You can often achieve more design flexibility for your budget There’s no “mystery factory” in the background – our workshop is the factory You’re not just buying a ring; you’re commissioning a piece from one of New Zealand’s largest jewellery manufacturing teams, with the expertise and capabilities to support you from design to lifetime aftercare.

Quick guide: Want the focus on the diamond? Solitaire. Want maximum visual impact per dollar? Halo. Want the most durable and practical setting? Bezel. Want extra diamond presence without a halo? Three-stone. Want a sparkling band? Pavé. Want architectural drama? Split-shank or cathedral. The setting of an engagement ring determines how the diamond sits on the band, how it is secured, and how much of the diamond is visible. It is the second most important decision after the diamond itself, and it affects both the visual character and the practical durability of the ring. This guide covers every major setting style with the specific advantages and the buyer profile each setting suits best. Solitaire Settings Browse solitaire engagement rings. A single diamond, a plain band, no additional accent stones. The solitaire is the most classic engagement ring configuration and the one that puts every aspect of the centre diamond's quality and character on full display. The four-prong solitaire is the most common and creates a rounder visual profile around the stone. The six-prong solitaire provides more security and creates a crown-like profile that suits round and oval centres particularly well. Best for: Buyers who want the centre diamond to be the complete focus of the ring. Buyers who want maximum compatibility with any wedding band. Buyers prioritising a larger centre stone within their budget. Consider if: You want a minimal, timeless aesthetic without decorative elements on the band or around the stone. Halo Settings Browse halo engagement rings. A ring of smaller accent diamonds surrounds the centre stone, amplifying the perceived size by approximately 0.25 to 0.50 carats. A 0.80 carat centre in a halo reads comparably to a 1.25 to 1.30 carat solitaire. The hidden halo (accent diamonds set slightly below the centre stone) reads as a solitaire from above with additional depth and sparkle visible at close range. Best for: Buyers who want maximum visual impression within their budget. Cushion, oval, pear, and heart shaped centres, where the halo follows the distinctive outline of the shape. Consider if: You want more overall sparkle and diamond presence than a solitaire, or if your centre stone budget is modest and you want to maximise face-up appearance. Bezel Settings Browse bezel engagement rings. A rim of metal encircles the entire perimeter of the diamond, holding it flush within the band. The bezel is the most secure setting, as the metal rim protects the stone's edge all the way around. No prongs to catch on clothing or fabrics. Particularly suited to active lifestyles and buyers who use their hands in physical work. Best for: Active lifestyles where prongs would be a practical inconvenience. Buyers who prefer a sleek, modern, architectural aesthetic. Round, oval, and emerald centres where the clean outline reads clearly within the metal frame. Consider if: Security and low-maintenance wearability are higher priorities than maximum light exposure to the stone. Pavé Settings Small accent diamonds set closely together along the band with minimal metal between them, creating a continuously sparkling surface. Pavé adds sparkle and visual weight to the ring without competing with the centre stone. Full pavé runs diamonds on all sides of the band. Half-pavé runs diamonds on the visible top half only. Micro-pavé uses smaller stones for a finer, more delicate texture. Best for: Buyers who want more overall sparkle than a plain solitaire without adding a halo. Buyers who want the band to contribute visually to the ring rather than recede. Consider if: You want a plain band to pair cleanly with the wedding band — pavé bands can limit compatible wedding band styles. Three-Stone Settings Browse three-stone engagement rings. A centre diamond flanked by two matching or complementary side stones, traditionally representing the past, present, and future. Side stones can match the centre shape (oval centre with oval sides) or contrast it (oval centre with pear sides pointing inward, emerald centre with baguette sides). Three-stone settings add more diamond presence than a solitaire without adding a halo. Best for: Buyers who want more diamond presence without a halo. Buyers who want a design with symbolic meaning built into the structure. Oval, cushion, and emerald centres pair particularly well with contrasting side stone shapes. Consider if: You want a design that feels more distinctive and custom than a standard solitaire or halo. Split-Shank and Cathedral Settings A split-shank setting divides the band into two separate strands as it approaches the centre stone, adding architectural drama. A cathedral setting arches the metal sides upward, raising the centre stone above the plane of the band for maximum visibility and a dramatic side profile. Both add complexity and visual interest to the setting without adding accent diamonds. Best for: Buyers who want architectural drama and a distinctive band profile. Round, oval, and cushion centres, where the raised or split frame creates a strong visual contrast. Consider if: You have an active lifestyle — raised or complex band profiles can catch on surfaces more than a low-profile bezel or plain solitaire. Choosing Between a Solitaire and a Halo — The Practical Decision This is the most common setting decision buyers face. The practical framework: Choose a solitaire if your priority is a larger, higher-quality centre stone and you want all visual attention on the diamond's own character. Choose a halo if your priority is maximum visual impression at a given total budget, and you are comfortable with a ring that is more decorative in character. Choose a hidden halo if you want the maximum visual impact of a halo with the clean top profile of a solitaire — the hidden halo reads as a solitaire from above and as a halo from the side. There is no objectively correct setting. The solitaire and the halo represent two different philosophies about what an engagement ring should be. Both are equally appropriate. The decision is entirely personal. Browse our full engagement ring collection to see all setting styles across all diamond shapes and metals. Or  contact us to discuss which setting style suits your specific diamond shape, budget, and lifestyle. Frequently Asked Questions Q1: What is a solitaire engagement ring setting? A solitaire setting features a single centre diamond on a plain or simply detailed band, with no additional accent diamonds on the setting or band itself. The solitaire is the most classic and most widely recognised engagement ring configuration. Its defining advantage is simplicity: all visual attention goes to the centre diamond, whose quality, size, and character are fully visible from every angle. A solitaire setting suits any diamond shape and any metal. The most common solitaire variations are the four-prong (which creates a more circular diamond outline) and the six-prong (which creates more security and a crown-like profile). Solitaires are also the easiest setting to resize and the most compatible with any wedding band style, whether plain, pavé, or contoured. Q2: What is a halo engagement ring setting? A halo setting surrounds the centre diamond with a ring of smaller accent diamonds, amplifying the perceived size of the centre stone by approximately 0.25 to 0.50 carats and adding sparkle density to the overall ring. A 0.80 carat centre diamond in a halo typically reads comparably to a 1.25 carat solitaire. The halo is the most popular setting style for oval and cushion cut centres in the current market. A standard halo sits at the same plane as the centre stone; a hidden halo (also called a floating halo) is set slightly below the centre stone, creating the appearance of a solitaire from above with additional sparkle visible from the side and at close range. Halo settings pair particularly well with oval, cushion, pear, and heart shaped centres, where the halo follows the distinctive outline of the shape. Q3: What is a bezel engagement ring setting? A bezel setting encircles the entire perimeter of the centre diamond with a rim of metal, holding the stone flush within the band. The bezel is the most secure of all common settings, as the metal rim fully protects the diamond's edge all the way around. It is the most practical setting for active lifestyles, as there are no prongs to catch on clothing or fabrics. The bezel produces a sleek, modern, clean profile that suits contemporary and minimalist aesthetics particularly well. It also suits round, oval, and emerald cut centres most naturally, where the clean outline of the shape reads clearly within the metal frame. The bezel's protective quality makes it particularly recommended for softer precious stones and for buyers who use their hands frequently in physical work. Q4: What is a pavé engagement ring setting? A pavé setting (from the French word for paved) features small accent diamonds set closely together along the band with minimal metal between them, creating a continuous, sparkling surface that appears paved with diamonds. The diamonds are held by tiny metal beads or prongs, producing the characteristic glittering band that is one of the most popular engagement ring band styles. Pavé bands add sparkle and visual weight to the ring without adding a halo or competing with the centre stone. A full pavé band runs diamonds on all sides of the band. A half-pavé runs diamonds only on the visible top half. A micro-pavé uses smaller diamonds for a finer, more delicate texture. Pavé settings require careful maintenance as the small prongs holding each stone can wear over time with daily use. Q5: What is a three-stone engagement ring setting? A three-stone setting features a centre diamond flanked by two matching or complementary side stones. The three stones traditionally represent the past, present, and future of a relationship. The side stones may be smaller versions of the same shape as the centre (round centre with round sides, oval centre with oval sides), or contrasting shapes that complement the centre outline (oval centre with pear sides pointing inward, emerald centre with baguette sides). Three-stone settings are particularly popular for oval, cushion, and emerald centres. They add more diamond presence than a solitaire without adding a halo. Three-stone rings with contrasting side stone shapes tend to read as more distinctive and custom in character than matching sets. Q6: What is a split-shank or cathedral engagement ring setting? A split-shank setting features a band that divides into two separate strands as it approaches the centre stone, creating a dramatic frame for the diamond and adding visual interest to the band's profile. The split shank creates a sense of openness and architectural detail that a plain band does not. A cathedral setting raises the centre diamond above the plane of the band by arching the metal sides upward to hold the stone at a higher position, increasing the diamond's visibility and the dramatic effect of the ring's profile from the side. Both split-shank and cathedral settings suit round, oval, and cushion centres particularly well. They are generally not recommended for buyers with active lifestyles where the raised or complex band profile might catch on surfaces. Q7: Should I choose a solitaire or a halo engagement ring? Choose a solitaire if you want the focus entirely on the centre diamond's quality and character, prefer a cleaner and more minimal profile, want maximum compatibility with any wedding band style, or are prioritising a larger centre stone within your budget. Choose a halo if you want to maximise the visual impression of the centre stone at a given budget (the halo adds approximately 0.25 to 0.50 carats of perceived size), prefer a more dramatic and decorative ring profile, or are choosing a cushion, oval, pear, or heart shaped centre where the halo follows the distinctive shape outline. The halo also suits buyers who prefer more diamond presence overall. Both settings are equally appropriate for any occasion or lifestyle. The most practical deciding factor is whether you want maximum budget in the centre stone (solitaire) or maximum overall visual impression (halo). Q8: What is the most popular engagement ring setting in NZ? The solitaire remains the most popular engagement ring setting in New Zealand overall, accounting for the majority of engagement ring sales by style. The oval solitaire in 18ct yellow gold is currently TJ Diamond's most-requested configuration in New Zealand and the broader international market. Halo settings are the second most popular, particularly for cushion and oval centres. The hidden halo has seen strong growth in the NZ market since 2022. Bezel settings have grown steadily as buyers seek more minimalist aesthetics and practical durability. Three-stone settings remain popular for milestone occasions and for buyers who want more diamond presence without a halo. Pavé bands are the most popular band style addition to solitaire settings across all shapes and metals.  

When you research engagement rings, you will encounter two gold standards: 14ct (or 14k in US notation) and 18ct (or 18k). The number describes the purity of the gold as a fraction of 24 parts. Understanding what the difference actually means for a ring worn every day for a lifetime is worth spending five minutes on before you buy. What the Numbers Mean Gold type Pure gold content Alloy content Hallmark stamp 10ct gold 41.7% 58.3% alloy metals 417 14ct gold 58.3% 41.7% alloy metals 585 18ct gold 75% 25% alloy metals 750 22ct gold 91.6% 8.4% alloy metals 916 24ct gold 99.9% 0.1% trace only 999 The 750 stamp inside an 18ct gold ring means 750 parts per thousand (75%) pure gold. The 585 stamp inside a 14ct ring means 585 parts per thousand (58.5%) pure gold. Both are real gold. The question is how much. Colour — The Most Visible Difference The most immediately apparent difference between 14ct and 18ct gold is the colour depth of yellow and rose gold. 18ct yellow gold: Richer, deeper, more saturated yellow. The higher gold content produces the warm, vivid colour associated with high-quality fine jewellery. Develops a warm patina over decades of daily wear. 14ct yellow gold: Slightly paler, less saturated yellow. The higher alloy content dilutes the gold's natural colour. In direct comparison with 18ct, the difference is visible to most observers. 18ct rose gold: Warm blush warmth from the copper alloy, richer and more vivid than 14ct rose gold. No replating required. White gold (either carat): Both are typically rhodium-plated to achieve a white surface. The colour difference between 14ct and 18ct white gold is less visible in the plated state. Durability — The Counterintuitive Truth 14ct gold is technically harder than 18ct gold because the higher alloy content introduces harder metals into the structure. In practical terms, this means 14ct gold is slightly more scratch-resistant. However, this hardness advantage is often overstated. 18ct gold is more than durable enough for daily engagement ring wear and has been used as the standard for fine jewellery in most of the world for over a century. The hardness difference is meaningful in jewellery that will experience significant friction or mechanical stress, but a well-made engagement ring in 18ct gold worn in normal daily life will not show meaningful wear difference compared to 14ct over a realistic ownership period. 18ct gold is not softer in the sense that it needs to be treated differently. It is softer in the laboratory sense, meaning it yields at a higher applied force than 14ct. In daily wear, this distinction is not meaningful for most engagement ring owners. The Replating Question Yellow 18ct gold and rose 18ct gold never need replating. The metal surface is the actual gold alloy of the ring, not a coating. White 18ct gold is typically rhodium-plated to achieve a bright white surface. This plating wears with daily contact, typically requiring professional replating every 1-3 years. This maintenance requirement applies to white gold regardless of whether it is 14ct or 18ct. For a ring worn every day for decades, TJ Diamond recommends yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum over white gold, as these metals require no ongoing replating maintenance. Why Most US Retailers Use 14ct Gold The dominance of 14ct gold in the United States is a historical commercial standard. 14ct gold costs less per piece to produce (less pure gold), which allowed retailers to maintain higher profit margins while appearing price-competitive. In most other fine jewellery markets — New Zealand, the UK, Europe, and Australia — 18ct is the standard minimum for fine engagement rings. TJ Diamond uses 18ct gold as standard at every price point. For US buyers, this means the ring ships in the international quality standard at pricing that compares favourably with US 14ct retail prices, because TJ Diamond eliminates the retail markup layers between the Auckland workshop and the buyer. Browse our yellow gold engagement rings and  rose gold engagement rings — all in 18ct gold as standard. For buyers considering white metal, see our  engagement ring collection for the full range of metal options, or  contact us to discuss metal choices for your specific ring. Frequently Asked Questions   Q1: What is the difference between 14ct and 18ct gold? 14ct gold contains 58.3% pure gold, with the remainder made up of alloy metals such as copper, silver, zinc, or nickel. 18ct gold contains 75% pure gold with a smaller alloy proportion. The higher gold content in 18ct produces a richer, deeper colour in yellow and rose gold, and a more consistent white in white gold. 18ct gold is also less likely to cause skin reactions for buyers with metal sensitivities, as the lower alloy content means less exposure to nickel and other reactive metals. In terms of durability, 14ct gold is slightly harder due to its higher alloy content, but 18ct gold is more than sufficiently durable for daily engagement ring wear, and TJ Diamond has used 18ct gold as the standard for all engagement rings and wedding bands for this reason. Q2: Which is better for an engagement ring, 14ct or 18ct gold? 18ct gold is the better choice for an engagement ring for three reasons. First, richer colour: the higher gold content produces a deeper, more vivid yellow in yellow gold, and a warmer, more lustrous rose in rose gold. Second, better long-term appearance: 18ct gold develops a warm patina over decades of daily wear that enriches its character. 14ct gold develops a slightly more yellowish tint over time as the alloy composition ages. Third, metal standards: 18ct is the international standard for fine engagement rings in New Zealand, the United Kingdom, Europe, and Australia. Most Houston and US retailers default to 14ct at the same price point. TJ Diamond uses 18ct as standard at every price point. The extra gold content is included in TJ Diamond's price at no additional charge because it is the correct base material for a ring intended to be worn for a lifetime. Q3: Is 14ct gold real gold? Yes. 14ct gold is real gold. The carat number describes the gold purity as a fraction of 24 parts. 14ct gold is 14 parts gold and 10 parts alloy metals, making it 58.3% pure gold. 18ct gold is 18 parts gold and 6 parts alloy, making it 75% pure gold. 24ct gold is 99.9% pure gold. All three are real gold. The difference is the purity level and the proportion of alloy metals present, which affects colour, durability, and price. 14ct and 18ct are both common jewellery golds. 10ct gold (41.7% pure) is also produced, primarily in the United States, though it is at the lower end of what most international standards classify as fine jewellery. Q4: Does 18ct gold tarnish or need replating? Yellow 18ct gold and rose 18ct gold do not tarnish and never need replating. The gold surface is the actual metal of the ring, not a coating applied over a base metal. What appears as tarnishing on untreated gold is the natural development of a patina as the alloy metals in the surface slowly oxidise, which typically enriches rather than diminishes the appearance of yellow gold over decades. White 18ct gold is typically rhodium-plated to achieve a bright white surface. The rhodium plating is a coating that wears over time with daily wear, typically requiring professional replating every 1-3 years. For a ring worn every day for a lifetime, TJ Diamond recommends yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum over white gold, as these metals require no ongoing replating maintenance. Q5: Why do US jewellers use 14ct gold instead of 18ct? The dominance of 14ct gold in the United States is primarily a historical commercial standard that became entrenched in the 20th century. 14ct gold is harder and more scratch-resistant than 18ct gold due to its higher alloy content, which was historically cited as a practical advantage. It also costs less per piece to produce, which allowed retailers to maintain higher profit margins while appearing price-competitive. In most other fine jewellery markets globally, including New Zealand, the United Kingdom, Europe, and Australia, 18ct gold is the standard minimum for engagement rings. TJ Diamond ships 18ct gold rings to US buyers at prices that compare favourably with US 14ct gold retail prices, because TJ Diamond is a manufacturing-direct business without retail markup layers. Q6: What does 750 stamped inside a gold ring mean? 750 is the millesimal fineness stamp for 18ct gold, indicating that the alloy contains 750 parts per thousand (75%) of pure gold. It is the international hallmarking standard used in most countries outside the United States. Inside a gold ring you may also see 585 (14ct gold, 58.5% pure), 375 (9ct gold, 37.5% pure), or 916 (22ct gold, 91.6% pure). In the United States, the ct or k (karat) marking system is more common, so an 18ct ring stamped for the US market may show 18k or 18ct. All hallmarks refer to the same purity standards. A TJ Diamond 18ct gold ring will be stamped with the appropriate hallmark for its jurisdiction. Q7: Is 18ct gold more expensive than 14ct gold? Yes, 18ct gold contains more pure gold per gram than 14ct gold, so the raw material cost is higher. At equivalent ring weight, an 18ct gold ring costs approximately 20-30% more in raw gold content than the equivalent 14ct ring. However, the total price of a ring depends on many factors beyond the metal cost, including the diamond, the craftsmanship, and the retail model of the seller. TJ Diamond's manufacturing-direct model eliminates the retail markup layers that most US jewellers apply, meaning TJ Diamond's 18ct gold rings are often priced comparably to or below what US retailers charge for equivalent 14ct gold rings at retail. The higher quality metal is included at no additional retail premium. Q8: Can you tell the difference between 14ct and 18ct gold by looking at it? In many cases, yes. 18ct yellow gold has a richer, deeper, more saturated yellow colour than 14ct yellow gold. The difference is more apparent in yellow and rose gold than in white gold, where both are typically rhodium-plated to the same white surface. In isolation, most buyers cannot precisely identify whether an unmarked ring is 14ct or 18ct. In direct side-by-side comparison, the difference in yellow gold depth is usually visible to the unaided eye, with 18ct appearing noticeably more vivid and rich. Over decades of daily wear, the colour difference becomes more apparent as the rings develop their respective patinas.    

Both are independent, reputable certification labs. GIA applies slightly stricter standards for natural diamonds and is the most widely trusted globally. IGI is the standard certifier for lab-grown diamonds. TJ Diamond stocks both GIA and IGI certified stones and recommends GIA for natural diamonds and IGI for lab-grown. When you buy a diamond engagement ring, the certificate that accompanies it is your primary independent quality verification. Every diamond TJ Diamond sells carries either a GIA (Gemological Institute of America) or IGI (International Gemological Institute) certificate. This article explains what each certifier is, how their standards differ, and how to choose between them. What GIA and IGI Both Do Both GIA and IGI are independent gemological laboratories — they do not buy or sell diamonds. Their role is to assess the quality of diamonds submitted to them and issue a grading report documenting the four quality variables (cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight) to a defined standard. Neither lab has a financial interest in the grade the diamond receives. Both laboratories are accepted by jewellers, insurance companies, and diamond dealers globally. A GIA or IGI certificate accompanies the ring and can be used for insurance valuation, resale documentation, and independent quality verification. Both labs also provide online report verification tools where any buyer can confirm the certificate's authenticity by entering the report number. The Key Differences Factor GIA IGI Founded 1931 — oldest major diamond lab 1975 — largest by volume Grading standards More conservative, slightly stricter in middle grades Slightly less conservative in middle grades — same scale Natural diamond reputation Highest in the industry Well-respected, slightly below GIA for natural stones Lab-grown diamonds Certifies lab-grown, less common Industry standard for lab-grown diamonds Resale value (natural) Highest — GIA commands a premium Slightly below GIA on secondary market Resale value (lab-grown) Equivalent to IGI Equivalent to GIA for lab-grown Price per certificate Higher — premium for strict standards Lower — more accessible pricing Online verification gia.edu/report-check igi.org/verify Why GIA Is Preferred for Natural Diamonds GIA applies slightly stricter grading standards than IGI in the middle quality ranges (F-J colour, VS1-SI1 clarity). This means a GIA G VS2 natural diamond has been verified against a stricter standard than an IGI G VS2. In practice, two diamonds with identical certificate grades from different labs may not be identical stones. A GIA-graded stone at a given grade is more reliably within the stated grade range than an IGI-graded stone at the same grade. For natural diamonds where long-term resale value is a consideration, GIA is the preferred certificate. The secondary market for natural diamonds applies a modest premium to GIA-certified stones, particularly at the 1 carat and above level. GIA certificates are also the most universally accepted by US jewellers for trade-in or upgrade programs. Why IGI Is the Standard for Lab-Grown Diamonds The majority of lab-grown diamonds are IGI-certified, and IGI's lab-grown grading standards are well-established. GIA also certifies lab-grown diamonds, but GIA lab-grown certificates are less common in the market simply because most lab-grown diamond producers have standardised on IGI. Both are entirely appropriate for lab-grown diamond certification — the choice between them for lab-grown is less significant than for natural diamonds. Browse TJ Diamond's full selection of lab-grown diamonds — all available with IGI or GIA certification at equivalent quality grades to natural diamonds. What a Certificate Does Not Tell You A certificate documents grades — it does not show you what the stone looks like. Two diamonds with identical GIA grades can appear meaningfully different in person due to differences in specific facet arrangement within the grade range, inclusion placement (a cloud near the table vs an inclusion near the girdle), fluorescence character, and the individual proportions within the stated depth and table ranges. This is why TJ Diamond provides virtual consultations for every diamond: the certificate tells you what the grades are, and the consultation shows you what the stone actually looks like. For a complete explanation of what the 4Cs mean and how each affects a diamond's appearance, see our article what are the 4Cs of diamonds?. For an understanding of how certificate grades affect diamond pricing, see how much does a 1 carat diamond ring cost?. Browse our full engagement ring collection, or  contact us to ask about specific GIA or IGI certified stones and arrange a virtual consultation. Frequently Asked Questions Q1: What is the difference between GIA and IGI diamond certification? GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and IGI (International Gemological Institute) are both independent diamond grading laboratories that issue certificates documenting a diamond's cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight. GIA is the older and more established of the two, founded in 1931, and its grading standards are widely considered the most conservative and consistent in the industry. IGI was founded in 1975 and is the world's largest independent gem certification and appraisal institute by volume. Both certificates are accepted by insurance companies and jewellers globally. The primary differences: GIA applies slightly stricter grading standards than IGI in the middle quality ranges, and GIA certificates command a modest premium in the natural diamond resale market. For lab-grown diamonds, IGI is the more widely used certifier and their grading is well-regarded. Q2: Which certificate is better for an engagement ring, GIA or IGI? For natural diamonds, GIA is the more conservative and widely respected certification. A GIA-certified natural diamond with a given colour and clarity grade is typically graded to a slightly stricter standard than an IGI-certified diamond at the same grade, meaning a GIA G VS2 and an IGI G VS2 may not be identical stones even at the same certificate grades. For lab-grown diamonds, IGI has become the industry standard. The majority of lab-grown diamonds are IGI-certified, and IGI's lab-grown grading is well-established and widely accepted. TJ Diamond offers both GIA and IGI certified diamonds. For natural diamonds where long-term resale value is a consideration, GIA is generally preferred. For lab-grown diamonds, IGI is the standard choice and entirely appropriate. Q3: Does a GIA or IGI certificate guarantee diamond quality? A GIA or IGI certificate documents the diamond's measured grades at the time of grading — it is an objective record, not a guarantee of subjective quality. Two diamonds can carry identical GIA grades and appear meaningfully different in person due to differences in facet pattern, fluorescence character, inclusion placement (a cloud near the table vs an inclusion near the girdle), and the specific proportions within the grade range. The certificate provides the essential quality framework for comparison, but it does not replace in-person or virtual visual assessment. This is why TJ Diamond holds virtual consultations for every diamond before purchase — the certificate tells the buyer what the grades are, and the consultation shows the buyer what the stone actually looks like in the specific setting metal they have chosen. Q4: Is IGI trustworthy for lab-grown diamonds? Yes. IGI is the most widely used certifying laboratory for lab-grown diamonds and their lab-grown grading standards are well-established and consistently applied. The majority of lab-grown diamonds produced by leading growers are IGI-certified, and IGI certificates for lab-grown diamonds are accepted by jewellers, insurance companies, and resellers globally. GIA also certifies lab-grown diamonds and their grading is equally respected, though GIA lab-grown certificates are less common in the market. Both GIA and IGI lab-grown certificates use the same 4Cs grading framework as natural diamond certificates, with the addition of a notation indicating the diamond is laboratory-grown. Q5: Can you tell if a diamond is lab-grown from its GIA or IGI certificate? Yes. GIA and IGI certificates for lab-grown diamonds state explicitly on the certificate that the diamond is laboratory-grown, using wording such as "laboratory-grown," "lab-grown," or "synthetic" depending on the certifier and the year of certification. The certificate also typically notes the growth method (CVD or HPHT). A natural diamond certificate will not contain any such notation. The diamond's unique report number can be verified on the GIA or IGI online lookup tool, where the same information is visible. A buyer receiving a diamond with a certificate can therefore verify the natural or lab-grown status of any GIA or IGI certified stone independently and immediately. Q6: What does the GIA grading scale for diamond colour mean? The GIA colour grading scale for white diamonds runs from D (completely colourless) to Z (light yellow or brown). D, E, and F are colourless grades, visible as colourless to the naked eye in any setting. G, H, I, and J are near-colourless — appearing colourless to the naked eye in most settings, with slight warmth visible under magnification or in direct comparison with a D-F stone. K through Z show increasing visible warmth or yellow tint. For most engagement ring buyers, G or H colour represents the practical sweet spot: effectively colourless in the finished ring at a meaningfully lower price than D-F grades. The colour grade advantage of warm metal settings (yellow gold, rose gold) allows buyers to select H or I colour without visible warmth, saving significantly at any carat weight. Q7: How do I verify a GIA or IGI diamond certificate is genuine? Every GIA and IGI certificate carries a unique report number printed on the certificate. For GIA certificates, enter the report number at gia.edu/report-check to verify the certificate's authenticity and view the graded details. For IGI certificates, enter the report number at igi.org/verify to verify. The online record will confirm the same grades shown on the physical certificate. Most modern GIA and IGI certified diamonds also have the report number laser-inscribed on the girdle of the diamond itself (the narrow band around the edge), which can be verified under 10x magnification by any trained jeweller. TJ Diamond provides the specific certificate report number before any purchase is finalised, so buyers can independently verify the stone's grades before the ring ships. Q8: Do natural diamonds hold their value better than lab-grown diamonds? Natural diamonds have historically retained value better than lab-grown diamonds on the secondary market. Lab-grown diamond prices have declined significantly since 2020 as production technology has improved and production volumes have increased, reducing the price premium that early lab-grown diamonds commanded. As of 2025, lab-grown diamonds at retail are typically 50-70% below natural equivalents at the same quality grades. On resale, the gap is typically even larger. For buyers whose primary goal is a visually impressive ring within a defined budget, lab-grown provides the most stone presence per dollar. For buyers who specifically want a ring that holds secondary market value, natural diamonds remain the more conservative choice. TJ Diamond offers both natural and lab-grown diamonds with GIA and IGI certification, allowing buyers to make an informed choice based on their specific priorities.  

A proposal is one of the most significant moments in a relationship, and most of the pressure people feel around it is self-created. There is no single correct way to propose. There are only decisions that suit your partner and your relationship. This guide covers every practical question. Choosing the Ring — Surprise or Together? Surprise ring: Choose the ring yourself and present it at the proposal. Most emotionally impactful if you choose well. Carries the risk that the style does not match your partner's preference. Shop together first: Choose the ring design together before the formal proposal. Eliminates style risk entirely. The proposal moment itself is still meaningful you are still asking the question. Propose first, choose together after: Propose with a placeholder, then shop for the ring together after the engagement. Increasingly common separates the emotional proposal moment from the ring selection. Browse our full engagement ring collection to understand what is available before any conversation about rings. Secretly Finding the Ring Size Borrow a ring your partner wears on the ring finger of their left hand, trace the inner circle on paper, and measure the diameter. Return it before they notice. Ask a close family member or trusted friend who may already know. If no measurement is possible, the most common NZ women's engagement ring size is N (approximately US 6.75). TJ Diamond includes a complimentary resize within the first 12 months a slightly incorrect size is not a significant problem. For the full ring sizing guide including at-home measurement methods, see how to measure your ring size at home . What to Say When You Propose There are no required words. The most meaningful proposals speak authentically rather than reciting memorised lines. Three things make a proposal speech genuinely moving: Be specific about why you want to marry this particular person not generic declarations, but something true and particular to your relationship. Reference something shared a specific memory, a quality you admire, a moment of certainty. State clearly what you are asking. Do not leave it as an implied question. Shorter is often better than longer. Practise beforehand not to perform, but to avoid forgetting what you want to say in the moment. The proposal speech does not need to be perfect. It needs to be honest. Your partner will remember that you meant it, not that every word was elegantly chosen. Public or Private? Base this decision on your partner's personality, not on what creates the most impressive photograph. Ask yourself honestly: would your partner find a public proposal romantic, or anxiety-inducing? Private proposals suit partners who are reserved or uncomfortable with public attention. Public proposals suit partners who are genuinely outgoing and would love the shared witness but check honestly before choosing this. A small intimate group (close family, a few friends) offers a middle option witnessed and celebrated, but not performed for strangers. How to Present the Ring Present the ring in the box it came in. A quality ring box is a physical object many couples keep permanently. Open the box yourself and hold it while asking the question do not hand it over closed. If kneeling, hold the box at chest height so the ring is clearly visible. After the answer, offer to put the ring on their finger yourself this is the most emotionally resonant moment of the proposal. If photographs matter, arrange a camera setup in advance  ask a trusted friend, or use a stabilised phone mount. What If the Ring Does Not Fit? This is one of the most common proposal concerns and the least serious problem in practice. Ring sizing is correctable. The proposal moment is not. Most plain gold and platinum bands resize one to two sizes up or down without affecting the ring's integrity. TJ Diamond includes a complimentary resize within the first 12 months for any ring we make. If the ring does not fit on the ring finger at all at the proposal, put it on whatever finger fits for the moment. It can be resized before daily wear begins. For rings that are difficult to resize after setting, plain solitaire engagement rings are the simplest to resize and the most forgiving for surprise proposals. How Far in Advance to Order TJ Diamond recommends ordering at least 8-10 weeks before your intended proposal date for a standard ring, and 10-14 weeks for a bespoke design. All rings are handcrafted to order in Auckland — not pre-made stock. Browse our full engagement ring collection. Or  Contact our team to discuss your proposal timeline and confirm the production schedule for your ring and date. For help choosing the right diamond size, see what is a good size diamond for an engagement ring?  Related: What hand does your engagement ring go on? Frequently Asked Questions   Q1: When is the best time to propose? The best moment is the one most meaningful to you and your partner. Propose when you are both relaxed and not rushed, in a setting where interruptions are unlikely, and at a time of day when your partner is at their most receptive. Avoid proposing immediately before or after a high-stress event. The most memorable proposals are those where the person proposing has genuinely thought about what their partner would find meaningful, not what looks impressive on social media. Q2: Should you show your partner the ring before proposing? There are three valid approaches. The surprise proposal: choose the ring yourself and present it at the moment. The collaborative approach: shop for the ring together before the formal proposal. The proposal-first approach: propose without the ring, then choose the ring together afterward. Each approach has different strengths. The surprise creates the most spontaneous emotional moment; the collaborative approach eliminates any risk that the ring style does not match your partner's preference. Q3: How do I secretly find out my partner's ring size before proposing? Borrow a ring they already wear on the ring finger of the left hand, trace the inner circle on paper, and measure the diameter. Ask a close family member or trusted friend. If no measurement is possible, the most common NZ women's engagement ring size is N (approximately US 6.75) — a rough starting point only. TJ Diamond includes a complimentary resize within the first 12 months, so a slightly incorrect size is not a significant problem. Q4: What should I say when I propose? There are no required words. The most meaningful proposals speak authentically rather than reciting memorised lines. Be specific about why you want to marry this particular person, not generic. Reference something shared between you — a memory, a quality you admire, a moment of certainty. State clearly what you are asking. Practise beforehand so you are not reading from your phone. Shorter is often better than longer. Q5: What if my partner says they need time to think? Give them the space they ask for without repeated prompting. Someone who needs time to process is not saying no — they are being honest about needing time for something important. If this is a concern before proposing, a direct conversation about readiness for marriage before the formal proposal is always a valid approach. Q6: What is the best way to present the engagement ring? Present the ring in the box it came in. Open the box yourself and hold it while asking the question. If kneeling, hold the box at chest height so the ring is clearly visible. After the answer, offer to put the ring on their finger yourself — this is the most emotionally resonant moment of the proposal. If photographs matter to you, arrange a camera setup in advance. Q7: How far in advance should I order the ring before proposing? TJ Diamond recommends ordering at least 8-10 weeks before your intended proposal date for a standard ring, and 10-14 weeks for a bespoke design. All rings are handcrafted to order in Auckland — not pre-made stock. Contact TJ Diamond as soon as you have a clear idea of what you want and we will confirm the specific production schedule for your ring and date. Q8: Should I propose in public or private? Choose based on your partner's personality, not on what creates the most impressive photograph. If your partner is private or uncomfortable with public attention, propose somewhere intimate. If they are genuinely outgoing and would love a public moment, choose a setting accordingly. The proposal experience should be designed for your partner, not for an audience.  

The princess cut is the most popular non-round diamond shape in the world and the second most popular overall after the round brilliant. If you are considering a square diamond, this article covers everything you need to know. Where the Princess Cut Comes From The princess cut was created in 1979 by diamond cutters Betazel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. It is one of the newest major diamond cuts in regular production unlike the oval, cushion, and emerald cuts with histories stretching back decades or centuries. Ambar and Itzkowitz designed it to solve a specific problem: how to produce a square diamond with maximum brilliance while wasting as little of the original rough crystal as possible. Their solution maps closely to the natural octahedral shape of diamond rough two princess cuts can often be produced from one crystal with minimal waste. The 20-30% price advantage of the princess cut over round brilliants is not a quality compromise. It is engineering efficiency built into the shape at the point of cutting. Princess Cut vs Round Brilliant — The Key Differences Factor Round Brilliant Princess Cut Outline Circular Square with pointed corners Face-up at 1ct ~6.4mm diameter ~5.5mm per side Price per carat Highest — up to 60% rough waste 20-30% below round — efficient rough use GIA cut grade Formal scale: Excellent to Poor No formal overall cut grade — polish/symmetry only Corner vulnerability None 4 sharp corners — V-prong protection essential Chevron facet variants Standard 57 facets 2, 3, or 4 chevron patterns on pavilion The Corner Requirement — V-Prongs Are Essential The four sharp 90-degree corners are the princess cut's most structurally vulnerable points. A direct impact at a corner concentrates force at the single sharp edge, which is susceptible to chipping. V-shaped corner prongs cradle each corner edge on both sides, absorbing impact across the prong rather than the diamond. Standard round prongs leave the corner partially exposed. Every TJ Diamond princess cut ring uses V-shaped corner prongs as standard, across every ring style and occasion. The Chevron Facet Pattern — The Detail Most Buyers Miss Princess cut diamonds are produced with different numbers of chevron facets on the pavilion. This affects the visual sparkle character and is not disclosed on any certificate. Two chevron patterns: Larger, more defined facets produce bold, high-contrast flashes  similar in character to a round brilliant. Three chevron patterns: Intermediate. Balanced between bold and intricate. Four chevron patterns: The smallest facets produce the most intricate, scintillating sparkle the most distinctly princess-specific visual character. The chevron count must be assessed in person. TJ Diamond holds princess cut diamonds with different chevron counts in our Auckland studio for direct comparison. Princess Cut vs Cushion Cut Both are square or near-square brilliant cuts. The princess has sharp pointed corners requiring V-prong protection; the cushion has soft rounded corners without corner vulnerability. The princess reads as modern and geometric; the cushion reads as vintage and romantic. See our cushion engagement rings collection for direct comparison. Ring Settings for Princess Cut Diamonds Princess engagement rings four-corner V-prong solitaires and all engagement ring styles for the princess cut. Princess cut diamond rings broader occasion range including anniversary, fashion, and self-purchase princess cut rings. Channel setting the flat sides of the princess cut align naturally with channel walls for a clean architectural look. Bezel setting the metal rim encircles all four corners for maximum protection and a sleek contemporary profile. Princess Cut Pricing in NZ Princess cut diamond rings at TJ Diamond start from $999 NZD. The 20-30% price advantage over rounds applies at all quality levels. For a complete NZ price breakdown by carat weight and quality grade, see how much does a 1 carat diamond ring cost?  Contact us to compare princess cut diamonds at different chevron counts in our Auckland studio before deciding. Related: What is the best diamond cut for maximum sparkle? Frequently Asked Questions   Q1: What is a princess cut diamond? A princess cut diamond is a square or near-square diamond with four pointed corners and brilliant-cut facets applied throughout. It is the second most popular diamond shape globally after the round brilliant, and the most popular square diamond shape. Created in 1979, it delivers brilliance and fire comparable to a round brilliant within a square outline at a price typically 20-30% lower. Q2: Is a princess cut diamond more affordable than a round brilliant? Yes — princess cut diamonds are typically priced 20-30% less per carat than round brilliants at equivalent quality grades. The princess cut's square pyramid outline maps closely to the natural octahedral shape of diamond rough, wasting significantly less material in cutting. Two princess cuts can often be produced from a single octahedral crystal with minimal waste, while a round brilliant loses up to 60% of the original rough. Q3: What is the most important quality factor for a princess cut diamond? Cut quality is the most important factor. For the princess cut specifically, the chevron or wing facet pattern on the pavilion significantly affects the visual character of the sparkle — two chevron patterns produce bold, distinct flashes; four chevron patterns produce more numerous, smaller sparkle points. The chevron count must be assessed in person and does not appear on any certificate. After cut quality, colour grade matters most. Q4: Do princess cut diamonds require special prong protection? Yes. The four sharp 90-degree corners are the shape's most structurally vulnerable points. A direct impact at a corner concentrates force on the single sharp edge and the corner is susceptible to chipping. V-shaped corner prongs cradle each corner on both sides, protecting the point from direct impact. Standard round prongs leave the corner partially exposed. TJ Diamond sets every princess cut ring with V-shaped corner prongs as standard. Q5: What is the difference between a princess cut and a cushion cut? Both are square or near-square brilliant cuts. A princess cut has four sharp 90-degree corners, producing a precise geometric square. A cushion cut has soft, rounded corners, producing a warmer pillow-like outline. The princess reads as modern and geometric; the cushion reads as vintage and romantic. The princess requires V-prong corner protection; the cushion's rounded corners carry no equivalent vulnerability. Q6: What is the ideal length-to-width ratio for a princess cut diamond? For a princess cut that reads as perfectly square, a length-to-width ratio of 1.00 to 1.05 is ideal. Ratios above 1.10 begin to appear noticeably rectangular. The princess cut's primary appeal is its pure square geometric character — buyers who want the most characteristic look should prioritise ratios as close to 1.00 as possible. Q7: What ring settings work best with a princess cut diamond? The most important setting requirement is V-shaped prongs at all four corners. A four-corner prong solitaire with V-prongs is the most classic setting. A channel setting suits the flat sides of the princess cut well. A bezel encircles all four corners for maximum protection and a sleek look. A halo of smaller round diamonds creates strong visual contrast between the square centre and circular accent diamonds. Q8: How much does a princess cut diamond ring cost in NZ? Princess cut diamond rings at TJ Diamond start from $999 NZD. The 20-30% price advantage over round brilliants applies across all carat weights and quality grades. A 1-carat princess cut in G colour, VS2 clarity, 18ct gold solitaire typically ranges from $3,500 to $11,000 NZD depending on specific grades. Lab-grown princess cut diamonds are available at an additional 50-70% saving.