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The princess cut is the most popular non-round diamond shape in the world and the second most popular overall after the round brilliant. If you are considering a square diamond, this article covers everything you need to know.
Where the Princess Cut Comes From
The princess cut was created in 1979 by diamond cutters Betazel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. It is one of the newest major diamond cuts in regular production unlike the oval, cushion, and emerald cuts with histories stretching back decades or centuries. Ambar and Itzkowitz designed it to solve a specific problem: how to produce a square diamond with maximum brilliance while wasting as little of the original rough crystal as possible. Their solution maps closely to the natural octahedral shape of diamond rough two princess cuts can often be produced from one crystal with minimal waste.
The 20-30% price advantage of the princess cut over round brilliants is not a quality compromise. It is engineering efficiency built into the shape at the point of cutting.
Princess Cut vs Round Brilliant — The Key Differences
|
Factor |
Round Brilliant |
Princess Cut |
|
Outline |
Circular |
Square with pointed corners |
|
Face-up at 1ct |
~6.4mm diameter |
~5.5mm per side |
|
Price per carat |
Highest — up to 60% rough waste |
20-30% below round — efficient rough use |
|
GIA cut grade |
Formal scale: Excellent to Poor |
No formal overall cut grade — polish/symmetry only |
|
Corner vulnerability |
None |
4 sharp corners — V-prong protection essential |
|
Chevron facet variants |
Standard 57 facets |
2, 3, or 4 chevron patterns on pavilion |
The Corner Requirement — V-Prongs Are Essential
The four sharp 90-degree corners are the princess cut's most structurally vulnerable points. A direct impact at a corner concentrates force at the single sharp edge, which is susceptible to chipping. V-shaped corner prongs cradle each corner edge on both sides, absorbing impact across the prong rather than the diamond. Standard round prongs leave the corner partially exposed. Every TJ Diamond princess cut ring uses V-shaped corner prongs as standard, across every ring style and occasion.
The Chevron Facet Pattern — The Detail Most Buyers Miss
Princess cut diamonds are produced with different numbers of chevron facets on the pavilion. This affects the visual sparkle character and is not disclosed on any certificate.
Two chevron patterns: Larger, more defined facets produce bold, high-contrast flashes similar in character to a round brilliant.
Three chevron patterns: Intermediate. Balanced between bold and intricate.
Four chevron patterns: The smallest facets produce the most intricate, scintillating sparkle the most distinctly princess-specific visual character.
The chevron count must be assessed in person. TJ Diamond holds princess cut diamonds with different chevron counts in our Auckland studio for direct comparison.
Princess Cut vs Cushion Cut
Both are square or near-square brilliant cuts. The princess has sharp pointed corners requiring V-prong protection; the cushion has soft rounded corners without corner vulnerability. The princess reads as modern and geometric; the cushion reads as vintage and romantic. See our cushion engagement rings collection for direct comparison.
Ring Settings for Princess Cut Diamonds
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Princess engagement rings four-corner V-prong solitaires and all engagement ring styles for the princess cut.
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Princess cut diamond rings broader occasion range including anniversary, fashion, and self-purchase princess cut rings.
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Channel setting the flat sides of the princess cut align naturally with channel walls for a clean architectural look.
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Bezel setting the metal rim encircles all four corners for maximum protection and a sleek contemporary profile.
Princess Cut Pricing in NZ
Princess cut diamond rings at TJ Diamond start from $999 NZD. The 20-30% price advantage over rounds applies at all quality levels. For a complete NZ price breakdown by carat weight and quality grade, see how much does a 1 carat diamond ring cost?
Contact us to compare princess cut diamonds at different chevron counts in our Auckland studio before deciding.
Related: What is the best diamond cut for maximum sparkle?
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1: What is a princess cut diamond? |
|
A princess cut diamond is a square or near-square diamond with four pointed corners and brilliant-cut facets applied throughout. It is the second most popular diamond shape globally after the round brilliant, and the most popular square diamond shape. Created in 1979, it delivers brilliance and fire comparable to a round brilliant within a square outline at a price typically 20-30% lower. |
Q2: Is a princess cut diamond more affordable than a round brilliant? |
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Yes — princess cut diamonds are typically priced 20-30% less per carat than round brilliants at equivalent quality grades. The princess cut's square pyramid outline maps closely to the natural octahedral shape of diamond rough, wasting significantly less material in cutting. Two princess cuts can often be produced from a single octahedral crystal with minimal waste, while a round brilliant loses up to 60% of the original rough. |
Q3: What is the most important quality factor for a princess cut diamond? |
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Cut quality is the most important factor. For the princess cut specifically, the chevron or wing facet pattern on the pavilion significantly affects the visual character of the sparkle — two chevron patterns produce bold, distinct flashes; four chevron patterns produce more numerous, smaller sparkle points. The chevron count must be assessed in person and does not appear on any certificate. After cut quality, colour grade matters most. |
Q4: Do princess cut diamonds require special prong protection? |
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Yes. The four sharp 90-degree corners are the shape's most structurally vulnerable points. A direct impact at a corner concentrates force on the single sharp edge and the corner is susceptible to chipping. V-shaped corner prongs cradle each corner on both sides, protecting the point from direct impact. Standard round prongs leave the corner partially exposed. TJ Diamond sets every princess cut ring with V-shaped corner prongs as standard. |
Q5: What is the difference between a princess cut and a cushion cut? |
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Both are square or near-square brilliant cuts. A princess cut has four sharp 90-degree corners, producing a precise geometric square. A cushion cut has soft, rounded corners, producing a warmer pillow-like outline. The princess reads as modern and geometric; the cushion reads as vintage and romantic. The princess requires V-prong corner protection; the cushion's rounded corners carry no equivalent vulnerability. |
Q6: What is the ideal length-to-width ratio for a princess cut diamond? |
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For a princess cut that reads as perfectly square, a length-to-width ratio of 1.00 to 1.05 is ideal. Ratios above 1.10 begin to appear noticeably rectangular. The princess cut's primary appeal is its pure square geometric character — buyers who want the most characteristic look should prioritise ratios as close to 1.00 as possible. |
|
Q7: What ring settings work best with a princess cut diamond? |
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The most important setting requirement is V-shaped prongs at all four corners. A four-corner prong solitaire with V-prongs is the most classic setting. A channel setting suits the flat sides of the princess cut well. A bezel encircles all four corners for maximum protection and a sleek look. A halo of smaller round diamonds creates strong visual contrast between the square centre and circular accent diamonds. |
Q8: How much does a princess cut diamond ring cost in NZ? |
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Princess cut diamond rings at TJ Diamond start from $999 NZD. The 20-30% price advantage over round brilliants applies across all carat weights and quality grades. A 1-carat princess cut in G colour, VS2 clarity, 18ct gold solitaire typically ranges from $3,500 to $11,000 NZD depending on specific grades. Lab-grown princess cut diamonds are available at an additional 50-70% saving. |